Collexion - User contributions [en]

Android App Recommendations

2012-06-21T01:05:35Z

Shrapnel: s/sign/sing/

The following list of applications is taken from a sequence of emails on the Collexion mailing list. Much of the text is copied directly from emails. Thanks to Paul, Tim, Mike, and Dave for your input. Please feel free to update it and add your favorites.

{| class="wikitable"
! colspan="4"| Entertainment
|-
! align="left"| Category
! Name
! Description
! Recommendations
|-
! rowspan="3" align="left" valign="top"| Music
| Google Music
| Play MP3 files
| "surprisingly solid"
|-
| Meridian
| Supports gestures and headset buttons for next/prev/etc, which reduces the need to look at the device
| Good, free music player
|-
| SoundHound
| Identify songs you are listening to or sing to the device
|
|-
! rowspan="3" align="left" valign="top"| Game Console Emulator
| GBA Emulator Lite
| Play Gameboy Games on your Android device
|
|-
| Snes9x
| Play Super Nintendo Games on your Android device
|
|-
| Bit64
|
|
|-
! align="left" valign="top"| Games
| Free Android Angry Birds
| Shoot birds at pigs to get points
| comes with all levels available, paying just gets rid of ads
|-
! rowspan="2" align="left" valign="top"| Serial Reader
| Fast Dilbert Reader
| gives a nice minimal frontend for the entire colorized Dilbert archive with good prefetch behavior and such.
| "the most perfect serial reader I've ever encountered"
|-
| DailyComix
| for reading other comics
| "isn't perfect but is better than doing it from the browser"
|-

! colspan="4"| Utilities
|-
! align="left"| Category
! Name
! Description
! Recommendations
|-
! align="left"| SSH Client
| ConnectBot
|
|
|-
! align="left" valign="top"| Keyboard
| Hacker's Keyboard
| Adds an alternate on-screen keyboard with better punctuation support for coders
| Handy with ConnectBot
|-
! rowspan="2" align="left" valign="top"| File Browser
| ES File Explorer
|
| "you will need a file browser", "least hated free"
|-
| File Expert
| Like ES File Explorer, but supports sharing phone files via FTP/WWW/SMB over wifi
| Featureful
|-
! align="left"| Advertisement Removal
| Ad-Free Android
| Remove advertisements from apps
|
|-
! align="left"| Backup
| Titanium Backup
|
| Handy for removal of crapware
|-
! align="left" valign="top"| ROM Manager
| For dealing with bootloaders and ROMs
| "Highly recommended"
|-
! align="left"| Application Store
| Amazon App Store
| An additional source of applications
| "free app of the day brings interesting (if apparently developer unfriendly) stuff from time to time"
|-
! align="left" valign="top"| Mail
| K-9 Mail
| OSS mail client based on the built-in one
| "Much, much better." (than built-in client
|-
! rowspan="3" align="left" valign="top"| QR/Barcode Reader
| Barcode Scanner (by ZXing)
| Handles QR and other Barcodes
| preferred bar/QR app as well; Goggles does it too, but this ZXing is quicker and nicer.
|-
| ixMAT Scanner
| Can share stuff via QR code
|
|-
| QR Droid
| Many acquisition & sharing options, including from image
|
|-
! rowspan="3" align="left" valign="top"| Device Tracking
| Prey
| Remote recovery and/or wipe in case of theft
| OSSish; "Prey does your basic locate/lock/alarm, but doesn't have remote wipe or a companion app for live location from another phone (works through email or the website). I like Prey because it's open, the people seem privacy-minded, and it's also available for PCs. The PC version can operate independently of their service, activating when it detects a 404 not found for a file at a URL you control."
|-
| Lookout
| Remote recovery and/or wipe in case of theft
| Free, as in beer; I think Lookout is the most popular. They also make "Plan B" that you can remotely install from the Market's web interface if you forgot to install a tracker before your device was misplaced/stolen, which is a clever trick.
|-
| Where's My Droid
|
| unobtrusive; Wheres my Droid can ring (optionally with a custom tone) or reply with GPS coordinates from text or email based on code phrases. There is a paid version with remote wiping capability, but I don't have it upgraded. It also has an option to send an alert if the SIM is swapped in your device.
|-
! align="left" valign="top"| Web Browsing
| Chrome to Phone
| Send clipboard & links to your tablet from your browser (Firefox extension available)
|
|-
! rowspan="2" align="left" valign="top"| Location
| GPS Status
| Technical readout of GPS parameters
| Started ad-free, now has semi-intrusive ads
|-
| Llama
| Awesome location- and time-of-day-based settings management ''without'' using battery-hungry GPS. Can assign observed cell towers or wifi/bluetooth devices to locations, then change settings when entering/leaving. I have it disable GPS and enable wifi when I get home, start my podcast app (Google Listen) when I connect line out in the car. You can also create desktop shortcuts to gangs of actions.
| Awesome
|-
! rowspan="2" align="left" valign="top"| Network
| Wifi Analyzer
| Wifi site survey showing who's on what channel; Can do audible signal strength indicator
| Started ad-free, now has semi-intrusive ads
|-
| Fing
| minimally-invasive network analyzer; Mostly good for finding machines on a LAN and checking connectivity when troubleshooting
| "pretty handy from time to time", "Nice nmap-lite in my pocket. I always forget about it because of its nonsensical name"
|-
! rowspan="2" align="left" valign="top"| Command Line
| Superuser
| dumps the su binary in the right place, and provides a nice GUI to manage permissions
| required for technical users to find Android usable (rooted device required)
|-
| BusyBox
| command line shell
| required for technical users to find Android usable (rooted device required)
|}

Other recommendations and helpful info for Android phones/tablets:

* Don't forget to add the built-in Power Control Widget to one of your desktops if it's not already there. Nice quick toggles for various hardware bits.

* The two largest/most functional Android hacking communities I've come across are rootzwiki.com and xda-developers.com They both have some internet politics and drama, and n00bhorde problems that come with being for a dominant platform, but you can usually shake the information you need out of their forums and wikis.

Game Jam

2011-05-24T20:58:34Z

Shrapnel: Added a link to canvg for SVG rendering on canvas elements and Box2D-JS

= Collexion Game Jam #1 =
(May 20, 2011 7:00pm - May 21 7:00am)
(part of Buildycrunken @ Collexion)

Come take part in Collexion's first GAME JAM! We will spend the night hacking, with the goal of producing a playable, win-losable game. We'll start the night with an assortment of assets contributed by local artists, for you to work your arcane interactivating skills upon. Of course, you can make or modify as much more art during the session as you feel. Small teams or individual entries are encouraged!

At the end of the night, we'll post submitted games on the web for people to download and play.

'''Artists''': Want to see your work enjoyed in a whole new way? Contribute it to GAME JAM! We'll need plenty of beautiful imagery to make the game worlds really shine. Mainly we need two types of art: sprites for foreground (think cel animation, except with PNGs instead of plastic sheets), and environment for imagery. New work is great, and if you have any existing pieces which you'd be willing to donate for crazy mashups, that's great too! Whatever medium you want to start with (papier-mâché, pen and markers, photo source, etc.) is great, just as long as it can end up digital. Backgrounds should be transparent, except in the case that images are intended specifically to be used as backdrops.

'''Coders''': Work in whatever you're most comfortable with, be it C#, Python, Blender Game Engine, Max/MSP, or what have you. Just keep in mind that an end goal is to be able to share your games with the rest of the audience, so something that can run on Windows, OSX, Linux (Ubuntu?) with a minimum of extra setup and peripherals would be best. If you really want to make an iPad or XBox game, or something that uses the latest shader technologies, of course it's fine, just realize you may be cutting out some of the audience.

If you want to come to Game Jam and either work with a team all night or make new assets all night and share them with all the teams, that would be great.

Finally, to get the inspiration rolling, the overall theme will be (in coordination with the [http://experimentalgameplay.com/ Experimental Gameplay Project]) :

'''ZOOM'''

Feel free to take it in any direction you wish.

Happy jamming!

'''Resources'''
* HTML5/Javascript
** [http://html5gamer.com/ HTML5Gamer], blog about playing and building HTML5 games
** [http://craftyjs.com/ CraftyJS], Javascript game engine ([http://dailyjs.com/2011/02/11/crafty/ tutorial])
** [http://easeljs.com/ EaselJS], HTML5 canvas library
** [http://www.limejs.com/ LimeJS], Javascript game engine built with Google's [http://code.google.com/closure/library/ Closure] library
** [https://github.com/joshtynjala/gtween.js GTween.js], a Javascript tweening library (change properties over time for animation)
** [http://www.modernizr.com/ Modernizr], detect browser capabilities
** [http://www.phonegap.com/ PhoneGap], HTML5 dev framework, supports mobile devices and sensors (camera, accelerometer, compass, geolocation)
** [https://github.com/Modernizr/Modernizr/wiki/HTML5-Cross-browser-Polyfills HTML5 Cross-browser Polyfills], fallbacks for missing HTML5 functionality
** [https://code.google.com/p/canvg/ canvg], render SVG files and code to canvas elements
** [https://github.com/thinkpixellab/box2d Box2D-JS], a Javascript clone of the Box2D physics engine
* Assets
** [http://www.gamedev.net/topic/544073-free-2d3d-art-assets-09/ Giant list of assets], including the big huge TIGSource Assemblee competition [http://www.derekyu.com/tigs/assemblee/ asset page]

Game Jam

2011-05-20T18:23:33Z

Shrapnel: Added some resources

= Collexion Game Jam #1 =
(May 20, 2011 7:00pm - May 21 7:00am)
(part of Buildycrunken @ Collexion)

Come take part in Collexion's first GAME JAM! We will spend the night hacking, with the goal of producing a playable, win-losable game. We'll start the night with an assortment of assets contributed by local artists, for you to work your arcane interactivating skills upon. Of course, you can make or modify as much more art during the session as you feel. Small teams or individual entries are encouraged!

At the end of the night, we'll post submitted games on the web for people to download and play.

'''Artists''': Want to see your work enjoyed in a whole new way? Contribute it to GAME JAM! We'll need plenty of beautiful imagery to make the game worlds really shine. Mainly we need two types of art: sprites for foreground (think cel animation, except with PNGs instead of plastic sheets), and environment for imagery. New work is great, and if you have any existing pieces which you'd be willing to donate for crazy mashups, that's great too! Whatever medium you want to start with (papier-mâché, pen and markers, photo source, etc.) is great, just as long as it can end up digital. Backgrounds should be transparent, except in the case that images are intended specifically to be used as backdrops.

'''Coders''': Work in whatever you're most comfortable with, be it C#, Python, Blender Game Engine, Max/MSP, or what have you. Just keep in mind that an end goal is to be able to share your games with the rest of the audience, so something that can run on Windows, OSX, Linux (Ubuntu?) with a minimum of extra setup and peripherals would be best. If you really want to make an iPad or XBox game, or something that uses the latest shader technologies, of course it's fine, just realize you may be cutting out some of the audience.

If you want to come to Game Jam and either work with a team all night or make new assets all night and share them with all the teams, that would be great.

Finally, to get the inspiration rolling, the overall theme will be (in coordination with the [http://experimentalgameplay.com/ Experimental Gameplay Project]) :

'''ZOOM'''

Feel free to take it in any direction you wish.

Happy jamming!

'''Resources'''
* HTML5/Javascript
** [http://html5gamer.com/ HTML5Gamer], blog about playing and building HTML5 games
** [http://craftyjs.com/ CraftyJS], Javascript game engine ([http://dailyjs.com/2011/02/11/crafty/ tutorial])
** [http://easeljs.com/ EaselJS], HTML5 canvas library
** [https://github.com/joshtynjala/gtween.js GTween.js], a Javascript tweening library (change properties over time for animation)
** [http://www.modernizr.com/ Modernizr], detect browser capabilities
** [http://www.phonegap.com/ PhoneGap], HTML5 dev framework, supports mobile devices and sensors (camera, accelerometer, compass, geolocation)
** [https://github.com/Modernizr/Modernizr/wiki/HTML5-Cross-browser-Polyfills HTML5 Cross-browser Polyfills], fallbacks for missing HTML5 functionality
* Assets
** [http://www.gamedev.net/topic/544073-free-2d3d-art-assets-09/ Giant list of assets], including the big huge TIGSource Assemblee competition [http://www.derekyu.com/tigs/assemblee/ asset page]

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-04-18T15:07:34Z

Shrapnel: Added link to timelapse video

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

'''TIMELAPSE VIDEO AVAILABLE!!'''
We grabbed frames from our networked webcam during the build and cut it into a timelapse video. Go [http://vimeo.com/collexion/makerbot-build check it out].

<small>
* <nowiki>while true; do sleep 10; wget http://172.30.1.253/jpg/image.jpg; mv image.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done</nowiki>
or, remotely:
* <nowiki>while true; do sleep 60; wget http://lamecam.com/collexion/cam0.jpg; mv cam0.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done;</nowiki>

(as of Mon Feb 28 00:30 this is now happening server-side on lamecam. Bit late, I know, but...)
</small>

== 2/26/2011 — Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ==

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side. This may be too narrow, but we have spares.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight (UPDATE: it's [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/t-309109/man-that-s-a-tight-fit supposed to be that way]). It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - X-stage (Automated Build Platform)
* FINISHED - Y-stage
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly in progress (Next step: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc59 Superglue spacer feet to support].)
* Electronics mounting in progress

'''For next time:'''
* <strike>Check X-stage belt's tooth count; it's really loose, and it may be the wrong one</strike> -- It appears that the X-stage motor just needs to be adjusted by pulling the left top cap off the Y-stage assembly and sliding the motor to take up the slack.
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

== 3/2/2011 — Second build session. Massive progress. ==

[[File:session_2_photo_1.jpg|thumb|border|Collexion folk working through the electronics, extruder, and body assembly]]
With the X, Y, and Z stages complete, we took to assembling the body, mounting the rest of the electronics, and continuing work on the extruder.

It didn't seem that there was a good way to mount the extruder control board. If mounted as directed, it would be just about impossible to reach the USB port for firmware updates, and wires would need to be run to the screw terminals before the board was mounted to the bottom of the box because of clearance issues with the main motherboard. We turned it around to make the RJ-45, USB, and screw terminals face the outsides of the machine, but the included RJ-45 cable's strain relief boot is too long to fit inside the box when it's plugged into the extruder board. We're going to try making a custom cable as a remedy; cable, ends, and crimpers are living at the space.

There were two problems attaching the Y motor to the acrylic middle piece. The first was that in tightening the mounting bolts, we split the acrylic in at least three of the four mounting slots. The splits are small, but may lengthen under operating conditions. Here's hoping that doesn't happen, since we still haven't figured out how to get replacement wooden/acrylic parts for the machine.

The second problem was that the motor needed to be mounted all the way at the back of its slots to keep tension on the Y-axis toothed belt. Unfortunately, one of the mounting slots shares real estate with a T-joint slot in the acrylic, and the motor mounting bolt interferes with the nut for a T-joint mounting bolt. We may be able to just carefully cram everything in, but it won't be easy.

[[File:session_2_photo_2.jpg|thumb|border|The box is shaping up! Extruder, too!]]
The body assembly instructions never really say at what point you're supposed to screw the body together. We're just going to do it. The body setup also calls for five M4x50mm bolts, but our kit only contained three. We've only needed one so far, so our fingers are crossed.

We didn't have any high-temperature solder on hand for the heater resistors, so we used regular solder. One of our builders said he'd read that regular solder may give up the ghost after around 100 hours of use. We should revisit those solder joints when we've procured some of the high-temp stuff. It should be available from plumbing supply stores or maybe even Harbor Freight.

There's a step in the extruder instructions that says to "[http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc75 solder the red/black wire to the motor wires]". That didn't make much sense; it sounds like the instructions want you to connect the heater to the wires from one of the motors in the machine, but it doesn't say which one! On further reading, it sounds like "motor wires" refers to the physical properties of the wire and not the system to which it's connected. The directions could be clearer (a sentiment echoed several times during this build session).

Lots of progress. We might have this thing licked at our next build session!

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Mounting electronics

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly
* Body assembly

'''For next time:'''
* Adjust the X-stage drive belt; pull off the Y-stage's left top cap, loosen motor mount bolts, slide the motor back until all the slack is out of the belt, and retighten.
* Build an RJ-45-terminated cable for the extruder control board
* Finish extruder assembly (Next step? Maybe [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc76 Insulate wires]?)
* Test extruder per instructions
* Finish body assembly
** Screw the body panels together for real
** Finish securing the XY stage rods as detailed in: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc17 Adding XY stage]
** Then resume the build at: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc21 Adding Z stage]

== 3/9/2011 — Build Session The Thirde. ==

Misery and woe!

[[File:cracked_acrylic.jpg|thumb|border|After a week, our acrylic looked terrible]]
We arrived in the evening to find our acrylic middle piece cracked at every hole, with cracks spiderwebbing everywhere. It seems that we overtightened the mounting bolts. Since the piece was fine last week and hasn't been touched since, we're blaming thermal expansion/contraction for the mess. We attempted to solve the problem by drilling a stop hole at the end of each crack and then spreading epoxy over the length of the crack.

Ultimately, the acrylic probably needs to be replaced. We still haven't figured out how to order single structural parts from Makerbot Industries.

[[File:extruder_fix.jpg|thumb|border|Stepstruder foot fix]]
In addition, we found that one of the stepstruder's feet had been superglued into place with the wrong side facing out. It needed to be flipped end over end. The bolt holes in the left and right feet didn't have the same spacing from front to back, meaning the stepstruder would sit kitty-cornered on the Z-stage platform, one edge hanging off the front. We were able to pry the bottom-most superglued plate off the misaligned foot, but the next piece that joined the two extruder halves was tightly glued in tongue-and-groove. We used needle files to lengthen the hex hole for the 4mm nut into a slot in the acrylic, which let us use the mounting nut in the proper location without further extruder disassembly.

The Makerbot's OEM ATX power supply was defective. It refused to power on at all. We scavenged a power supply from one of the machines in the space and the motherboard and daughterboards fired right up.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Replaced the RJ-45 serial cable with a more bendy one to solve bend radius issue with the supplied one's boot.
* FINISHED - Stepstruder assembly. Since we'd used lead-free tin solder on the heating resistors, we decided that was good enough, vs. finding some silver solder later.
* FINISHED - Z-stage mounting.
* FINISHED - XY-stage mounting.

'''In Progress:'''
* Stepstruder electronics assembly
* Stepstruder mounting (complete?)
* Body assembly (almost complete)

'''For next time:'''
* [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-electronics-assembly Stepstruder electronics assembly]. Initial resistance tests pass. Calibrating the Z-axis stepper controller board potentiometers is done but should be re-checked carefully. The only thing left, other than that, is wiring the stepstruder stuff to the extruder controller board.
* Finish body assembly, mount power supply and electronics.
* [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:testing-your-bot Start testing!]

== 3/16/2011 — All Wired Up. ==

We managed to complete the mechanical and electronic assembly. We had just enough time to hook the 'bot up to ReplicatorG for some motor tests, but we were met with the dreaded "Toolhead 0: not found" message. Our wiring was amiss! We left the body unattached to its base, with heavy hearts and an eye toward next week's session.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Stepstruder electronics assembly.
* FINISHED - Stepstruder mounting.
* FINISHED - Body assembly (minus attaching the base, pending wiring diagnostics)

'''In Progress:'''
* Initial electrical tests

'''For next time:'''
* Continue [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:testing-your-bot Testing Your Bot].
* Finish body assembly, mount power supply and electronics.

== 3/23/2011 — Hot Wet Circuits. ==

We repaired some wiring, extended some wiring, and found a number of polarity or connection mistakes. For instance, the silkscreen on the ABP has the wrong polarity for the conveyor motor—we had to connect red to - and black to +, as shown in the photo in the assembly instructions.

In last week's build, we accidentally pulled a wire out of the extruder motor cooling fan. We'd attempted a repair, but it turned out to be unsuccessful. The fan is DOA. We replaced it with an old CPU cooling fan scrounged from member's otherwise useless stockpile of electronics junk.

The Z-axis stepper control board is malfunctioning. Some of the time, the Z stepper works fine. Some of the time, it only moves down (noisily). Some of the time, it doesn't move at all. In the latter case, the onboard voltage regulator gets ''very'' hot ''very'' quickly. When it's working, touching or fiddling with the wires at the control board connection causes it to fail, but only if the stepper motor is connected to the other end of the cable. It seems like a mechanical connection problem that's causing an unexpected ground. As of yet unsolved.

We cranked up the temperatures on the ABP and the extruder. After fixing the temperature sensor wiring on the ABP, everything worked well. We noticed strange condensation inside the ABP's conveyor belt when we drove the belt motor through ReplicatorG. No one, including Google, could explain it.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Wiring fixes.
* FINISHED - Temperatures tested.
* FINISHED - Limiting switches tested.
* FINISHED - X-axis tested.
* FINISHED - Y-axis tested.

'''In Progress:'''
* Z-axis and extruder tests.

'''For next time:'''
* Continue [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:testing-your-bot Testing Your Bot]. We need to get to the root of the Z-axis strangeness and find out why the extruder motor isn't motoring.
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

== 3/30/2011 — Hot Wet Plastic. ==

[[File:makerbot_printing_cube1.jpg|thumb|border|Printing Thing #0, a 20mm calibration cube]]
[[File:makerbot_printing_cube2.jpg|thumb|border|Printing Thing #0, a 20mm calibration cube]]
[[File:thing0_thing1.jpg|thumb|border|Thing #0 and Thing #1 (still on its raft)]]
The nice new 500W+ modular power supply Mike had installed for us wouldn't start up. It seems it may be too smart for our 'bot. Solutions may include adding a dummy load or shorting -5V to ground as Makerbot Industries [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:coolermaster-psu-fix has recommended] for some Coolermaster power supplies.

We solved the Z-axis stepper strangeness. The red wire on the stepper cable was poorly attached to the metal tab inside the plastic connector at the extruder controller board. It passed physical inspection, but a continuity test showed that minor flexing caused the electrical connection to break. We yanked the wire out of the crimp tab, soldered it to the outside of the tab, and re-crimped the strain relief. Works fine now.

The cable connecting the Z-axis limit switch needs to be several inches longer. It can't be routed behind the Z-stage because there isn't enough clearance between the back of the Z and the wall of the case. Therefore it has to be routed ''over'' the Z-stage when it's homed all the way to the top of its travel. Ideally, we'd tack it along the back upper corner of the case, then down along the right side, but the cable is ''far'' too short for that. The only way it worked was to route it between the stepper's threaded rod and the right-side smooth rod, over the top of the Z-stage, down through the acrylic panel, and over to the motherboard as directly as possible. The cable still gets pulled taut every time the Z-stage homes to the top.

We measured the maximum Z-height at 108mm per the [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:how-to-print#toc3 calibration instructions], then entered 107mm as a starting value in the alterations/start.gcode file in ReplicatorG's Skeinforge "SF35-Thingomatic-ABP-Stepstruder" profile. The ABP isn't level--the back edge looks to be at least 1mm higher than the front--so we'll need to level it with shims or washers. Getting the platform level and finding the correct Z-height has a huge impact on print quality.

We finally got to try a couple of test prints! Two 20mm [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5573 calibration cubes] printed pretty well for our first shot. The first was a little wavy, and the Internet said to try upping the feed rate a bit (platform speed of travel) without changing the flow rate (extrusion speed), since the extruded thread works best when it's stretched just a bit. We changed the feed rate (in ReplicatorG's "Generate GCode" window, Edit -> Craft radio button -> Speed radio button -> Feed Rate) from 28.5mm/s to 30mm/s, and the second cube did look better. Success! Excitement!

'''TODO:'''
* The ABP needs to be leveled.
* After leveling, the maximum Z-height needs to be found and marked on the 'bot. In fact, it wouldn't be a bad idea to make a plaque with a QR code directing potential users to a "best settings" page on this wiki.
* Align the Z-stage threaded rod. One post recommended moving the Z-stage all the way down off the threaded rod, then alternately tightening the Z stepper motor's mounting bolts until the threaded rod is "aimed" at the hole in the top of the Z-stage.
* Lube the rods with some dry silicone lubricant (spray on rag, wipe onto rods). 3-in-1 oil can be used, too, but it's messier.
* Even the second cube seemed to have problems at the lower layers. We may yet have gremlins in our temperature or feed rate settings. On a large, flat surface, pairs of neighboring threads would sometimes twist and raise from the raft on the first layer.
* While fiddling around with a few more prints, the 'bot occasionally just stopped mid-print (when printing from SD card or a tethered PC). The Internet says this can be a communication problem when tethered or a later communication problem due to RF interference. We need to twist our cables to reduce RFI.

Talk:Makerbot Thing-O-Matic accumulated knowledge

2011-04-14T16:30:57Z

Shrapnel:

Mike, are you having good luck with the ABP at 115C? I think I've been running it at 120C, but I don't know how to recognize the difference. [[User:Shrapnel|Shrapnel]] 17:15, 11 April 2011 (EDT)

I've actually dropped it all the way down to 105C with no problem. I think the lower the better. However, I can't tell if that is what is causing my tall builds to break free or if the Z-axis needs some loving. [[User:MikeDillion|MikeDillion]] 19:33, 11 April 2011 (EDT)
* Regardless, I think the Z-axis needs some lovin'. All the rods need some dry silicone lube (according to the Makerbot docs?), and the Z-axis threaded rod probably needs to be better aligned. I've read about bent threaded rods, too. [[User:Shrapnel|Shrapnel]] 12:30, 14 April 2011 (EDT)

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic accumulated knowledge

2011-04-11T22:27:36Z

Shrapnel: Added a link to the profile maker and some instructions

==Required Reading==
From the Thing-O-Matic Assembly Instructions / User Manual:
*'''[http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:testing-your-bot#toc5 Testing Your Bot: Testing Your Axes]''' - Make sure the axes are going the right direction and invert if necessary; do this every time you sit down for a new printing session.
*'''[http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:how-to-print How To Print]'''

ReplicatorG and skeinforge configuration (USE THIS TOOL to generate numbers to plug into your software):
* '''[http://makerblock.com/profilemaker Makerblock's Profilemaker]''' - Try 0.4mm layer height, 0.5mm thread width, and 2.84mm filament diameter (or measure it yourself with a caliper). Then load up ReplicatorG, open a .STL file, click the "Generate GCode" button, select your configuration profile and click "Edit..." to open skeinforge. Enter the profile maker's settings in skeinforge, click Save All, and return to ReplicatorG to generate gcode and begin printing.
* Make sure you [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:how-to-print#toc5 modify ReplicatorG's start.gcode] as shown below.

==Suggested Reading==
*[http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-dont-do-that Don't Do That!]
*[http://blog.makerbot.com/2011/03/10/maker-bot-party-mode/ Makerbot Party Mode]

Example start.gcode:
<pre>
(**** beginning of start.gcode ****)
(This file is for a MakerBot Thing-O-Matic)
(**** begin initialization commands ****)
G21 (set units to mm)
G90 (set positioning to absolute)
M108 R1.98 (set extruder speed)
M103 (Make sure extruder is off)
M104 S225 T0 (set extruder temperature)
M109 S115 T0 (set heated-build-platform temperature) <------- Change this
(**** end initialization commands ****)
(**** begin homing ****)
G162 Z F500 (home Z axis maximum)
G161 X Y F2500 (home XY axes minimum)
G92 Z107.2 ( ---=== Set Z axis maximum ===--- ) <------- and this
G92 X-57.5 Y-57 (set zero for X and Y)
(**** end homing ****)
(**** begin pre-wipe commands ****)
G1 X52 Y-57.0 Z10 F3300.0 (move to waiting position)
M6 T0 (wait for toolhead parts, nozzle, HBP, etc., to reach temperature)
M101 (Extruder on, forward)
G04 P5000 (Wait t/1000 seconds)
M103 (Extruder off)
(**** end pre-wipe commands ****)
(**** end of start.gcode ****)
</pre>

Talk:Makerbot Thing-O-Matic accumulated knowledge

2011-04-11T21:15:42Z

Shrapnel: Created page with "Mike, are you having good luck with the ABP at 115C? I think I've been running it at 120C, but I don't know how to recognize the difference. ~~~~"

Mike, are you having good luck with the ABP at 115C? I think I've been running it at 120C, but I don't know how to recognize the difference. [[User:Shrapnel|Shrapnel]] 17:15, 11 April 2011 (EDT)

Main Page

2011-04-05T19:14:43Z

Shrapnel:

{{Collexion:About}}

= What's New? =
* '''Give Back to Collexion: [https://bgcf.guidestargiving.org/donatenow Donate Online]''' (the BGCF handles all our funds, be sure to select "Collexion Fund")
* Check out our Steam group: [http://steamcommunity.com/groups/collexion/ Collexion on Steam]
* Join in on our weekly [[IRC meetup]]: Wednesdays 9pm on irc.freenode.net in #collexion
* Come to our new event: [[Collexion Show and Tell]]
* '''We ASSEMBLED a [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic Makerbot Thing-O-Matic]!!''' Check out our [[Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes|build notes]].

== Let's Make Something! ==
* Participate: [[Teams]]
* Some Group [[Projects]] that might be fun.
* Let's get [[Fundraising]]!
* [[MSP430 Workshop notes 2/27/2011]]
* [[Makerbot Thing-O-Matic accumulated knowledge]]

== Let's Do Something! ==
* Know the [[Rules]]
* Getting to know Collexion: [[Collexion Facts]]
* Collexion's Future: [[Roadmap]]
* Befriend our generous [[Board of Directors]]
* The [[Todo List]]

Main Page

2011-04-05T19:13:13Z

Shrapnel:

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-04-05T16:46:21Z

Shrapnel:

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

'''GATHER TIMELAPSE FRAMES!!'''
We'll put them together into a video at the end of the build.
* <nowiki>while true; do sleep 10; wget http://172.30.1.253/jpg/image.jpg; mv image.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done</nowiki>
or, remotely:
*<nowiki>while true; do sleep 60; wget http://lamecam.com/collexion/cam0.jpg; mv cam0.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done;</nowiki>

(as of Mon Feb 28 00:30 this is now happening server-side on lamecam. Bit late, I know, but...)

== 2/26/2011 — Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ==

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side. This may be too narrow, but we have spares.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight (UPDATE: it's [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/t-309109/man-that-s-a-tight-fit supposed to be that way]). It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - X-stage (Automated Build Platform)
* FINISHED - Y-stage
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly in progress (Next step: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc59 Superglue spacer feet to support].)
* Electronics mounting in progress

'''For next time:'''
* <strike>Check X-stage belt's tooth count; it's really loose, and it may be the wrong one</strike> -- It appears that the X-stage motor just needs to be adjusted by pulling the left top cap off the Y-stage assembly and sliding the motor to take up the slack.
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

== 3/2/2011 — Second build session. Massive progress. ==

[[File:session_2_photo_1.jpg|thumb|border|Collexion folk working through the electronics, extruder, and body assembly]]
With the X, Y, and Z stages complete, we took to assembling the body, mounting the rest of the electronics, and continuing work on the extruder.

It didn't seem that there was a good way to mount the extruder control board. If mounted as directed, it would be just about impossible to reach the USB port for firmware updates, and wires would need to be run to the screw terminals before the board was mounted to the bottom of the box because of clearance issues with the main motherboard. We turned it around to make the RJ-45, USB, and screw terminals face the outsides of the machine, but the included RJ-45 cable's strain relief boot is too long to fit inside the box when it's plugged into the extruder board. We're going to try making a custom cable as a remedy; cable, ends, and crimpers are living at the space.

There were two problems attaching the Y motor to the acrylic middle piece. The first was that in tightening the mounting bolts, we split the acrylic in at least three of the four mounting slots. The splits are small, but may lengthen under operating conditions. Here's hoping that doesn't happen, since we still haven't figured out how to get replacement wooden/acrylic parts for the machine.

The second problem was that the motor needed to be mounted all the way at the back of its slots to keep tension on the Y-axis toothed belt. Unfortunately, one of the mounting slots shares real estate with a T-joint slot in the acrylic, and the motor mounting bolt interferes with the nut for a T-joint mounting bolt. We may be able to just carefully cram everything in, but it won't be easy.

[[File:session_2_photo_2.jpg|thumb|border|The box is shaping up! Extruder, too!]]
The body assembly instructions never really say at what point you're supposed to screw the body together. We're just going to do it. The body setup also calls for five M4x50mm bolts, but our kit only contained three. We've only needed one so far, so our fingers are crossed.

We didn't have any high-temperature solder on hand for the heater resistors, so we used regular solder. One of our builders said he'd read that regular solder may give up the ghost after around 100 hours of use. We should revisit those solder joints when we've procured some of the high-temp stuff. It should be available from plumbing supply stores or maybe even Harbor Freight.

There's a step in the extruder instructions that says to "[http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc75 solder the red/black wire to the motor wires]". That didn't make much sense; it sounds like the instructions want you to connect the heater to the wires from one of the motors in the machine, but it doesn't say which one! On further reading, it sounds like "motor wires" refers to the physical properties of the wire and not the system to which it's connected. The directions could be clearer (a sentiment echoed several times during this build session).

Lots of progress. We might have this thing licked at our next build session!

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Mounting electronics

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly
* Body assembly

'''For next time:'''
* Adjust the X-stage drive belt; pull off the Y-stage's left top cap, loosen motor mount bolts, slide the motor back until all the slack is out of the belt, and retighten.
* Build an RJ-45-terminated cable for the extruder control board
* Finish extruder assembly (Next step? Maybe [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc76 Insulate wires]?)
* Test extruder per instructions
* Finish body assembly
** Screw the body panels together for real
** Finish securing the XY stage rods as detailed in: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc17 Adding XY stage]
** Then resume the build at: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc21 Adding Z stage]

== 3/9/2011 — Build Session The Thirde. ==

Misery and woe!

[[File:cracked_acrylic.jpg|thumb|border|After a week, our acrylic looked terrible]]
We arrived in the evening to find our acrylic middle piece cracked at every hole, with cracks spiderwebbing everywhere. It seems that we overtightened the mounting bolts. Since the piece was fine last week and hasn't been touched since, we're blaming thermal expansion/contraction for the mess. We attempted to solve the problem by drilling a stop hole at the end of each crack and then spreading epoxy over the length of the crack.

Ultimately, the acrylic probably needs to be replaced. We still haven't figured out how to order single structural parts from Makerbot Industries.

[[File:extruder_fix.jpg|thumb|border|Stepstruder foot fix]]
In addition, we found that one of the stepstruder's feet had been superglued into place with the wrong side facing out. It needed to be flipped end over end. The bolt holes in the left and right feet didn't have the same spacing from front to back, meaning the stepstruder would sit kitty-cornered on the Z-stage platform, one edge hanging off the front. We were able to pry the bottom-most superglued plate off the misaligned foot, but the next piece that joined the two extruder halves was tightly glued in tongue-and-groove. We used needle files to lengthen the hex hole for the 4mm nut into a slot in the acrylic, which let us use the mounting nut in the proper location without further extruder disassembly.

The Makerbot's OEM ATX power supply was defective. It refused to power on at all. We scavenged a power supply from one of the machines in the space and the motherboard and daughterboards fired right up.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Replaced the RJ-45 serial cable with a more bendy one to solve bend radius issue with the supplied one's boot.
* FINISHED - Stepstruder assembly. Since we'd used lead-free tin solder on the heating resistors, we decided that was good enough, vs. finding some silver solder later.
* FINISHED - Z-stage mounting.
* FINISHED - XY-stage mounting.

'''In Progress:'''
* Stepstruder electronics assembly
* Stepstruder mounting (complete?)
* Body assembly (almost complete)

'''For next time:'''
* [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-electronics-assembly Stepstruder electronics assembly]. Initial resistance tests pass. Calibrating the Z-axis stepper controller board potentiometers is done but should be re-checked carefully. The only thing left, other than that, is wiring the stepstruder stuff to the extruder controller board.
* Finish body assembly, mount power supply and electronics.
* [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:testing-your-bot Start testing!]

== 3/16/2011 — All Wired Up. ==

We managed to complete the mechanical and electronic assembly. We had just enough time to hook the 'bot up to ReplicatorG for some motor tests, but we were met with the dreaded "Toolhead 0: not found" message. Our wiring was amiss! We left the body unattached to its base, with heavy hearts and an eye toward next week's session.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Stepstruder electronics assembly.
* FINISHED - Stepstruder mounting.
* FINISHED - Body assembly (minus attaching the base, pending wiring diagnostics)

'''In Progress:'''
* Initial electrical tests

'''For next time:'''
* Continue [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:testing-your-bot Testing Your Bot].
* Finish body assembly, mount power supply and electronics.

== 3/23/2011 — Hot Wet Circuits. ==

We repaired some wiring, extended some wiring, and found a number of polarity or connection mistakes. For instance, the silkscreen on the ABP has the wrong polarity for the conveyor motor—we had to connect red to - and black to +, as shown in the photo in the assembly instructions.

In last week's build, we accidentally pulled a wire out of the extruder motor cooling fan. We'd attempted a repair, but it turned out to be unsuccessful. The fan is DOA. We replaced it with an old CPU cooling fan scrounged from member's otherwise useless stockpile of electronics junk.

The Z-axis stepper control board is malfunctioning. Some of the time, the Z stepper works fine. Some of the time, it only moves down (noisily). Some of the time, it doesn't move at all. In the latter case, the onboard voltage regulator gets ''very'' hot ''very'' quickly. When it's working, touching or fiddling with the wires at the control board connection causes it to fail, but only if the stepper motor is connected to the other end of the cable. It seems like a mechanical connection problem that's causing an unexpected ground. As of yet unsolved.

We cranked up the temperatures on the ABP and the extruder. After fixing the temperature sensor wiring on the ABP, everything worked well. We noticed strange condensation inside the ABP's conveyor belt when we drove the belt motor through ReplicatorG. No one, including Google, could explain it.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Wiring fixes.
* FINISHED - Temperatures tested.
* FINISHED - Limiting switches tested.
* FINISHED - X-axis tested.
* FINISHED - Y-axis tested.

'''In Progress:'''
* Z-axis and extruder tests.

'''For next time:'''
* Continue [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:testing-your-bot Testing Your Bot]. We need to get to the root of the Z-axis strangeness and find out why the extruder motor isn't motoring.
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

== 3/30/2011 — Hot Wet Plastic. ==

[[File:makerbot_printing_cube1.jpg|thumb|border|Printing Thing #0, a 20mm calibration cube]]
[[File:makerbot_printing_cube2.jpg|thumb|border|Printing Thing #0, a 20mm calibration cube]]
[[File:thing0_thing1.jpg|thumb|border|Thing #0 and Thing #1 (still on its raft)]]
The nice new 500W+ modular power supply Mike had installed for us wouldn't start up. It seems it may be too smart for our 'bot. Solutions may include adding a dummy load or shorting -5V to ground as Makerbot Industries [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:coolermaster-psu-fix has recommended] for some Coolermaster power supplies.

We solved the Z-axis stepper strangeness. The red wire on the stepper cable was poorly attached to the metal tab inside the plastic connector at the extruder controller board. It passed physical inspection, but a continuity test showed that minor flexing caused the electrical connection to break. We yanked the wire out of the crimp tab, soldered it to the outside of the tab, and re-crimped the strain relief. Works fine now.

The cable connecting the Z-axis limit switch needs to be several inches longer. It can't be routed behind the Z-stage because there isn't enough clearance between the back of the Z and the wall of the case. Therefore it has to be routed ''over'' the Z-stage when it's homed all the way to the top of its travel. Ideally, we'd tack it along the back upper corner of the case, then down along the right side, but the cable is ''far'' too short for that. The only way it worked was to route it between the stepper's threaded rod and the right-side smooth rod, over the top of the Z-stage, down through the acrylic panel, and over to the motherboard as directly as possible. The cable still gets pulled taut every time the Z-stage homes to the top.

We measured the maximum Z-height at 108mm per the [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:how-to-print#toc3 calibration instructions], then entered 107mm as a starting value in the alterations/start.gcode file in ReplicatorG's Skeinforge "SF35-Thingomatic-ABP-Stepstruder" profile. The ABP isn't level--the back edge looks to be at least 1mm higher than the front--so we'll need to level it with shims or washers. Getting the platform level and finding the correct Z-height has a huge impact on print quality.

We finally got to try a couple of test prints! Two 20mm [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5573 calibration cubes] printed pretty well for our first shot. The first was a little wavy, and the Internet said to try upping the feed rate a bit (platform speed of travel) without changing the flow rate (extrusion speed), since the extruded thread works best when it's stretched just a bit. We changed the feed rate (in ReplicatorG's "Generate GCode" window, Edit -> Craft radio button -> Speed radio button -> Feed Rate) from 28.5mm/s to 30mm/s, and the second cube did look better. Success! Excitement!

'''TODO:'''
* The ABP needs to be leveled.
* After leveling, the maximum Z-height needs to be found and marked on the 'bot. In fact, it wouldn't be a bad idea to make a plaque with a QR code directing potential users to a "best settings" page on this wiki.
* Align the Z-stage threaded rod. One post recommended moving the Z-stage all the way down off the threaded rod, then alternately tightening the Z stepper motor's mounting bolts until the threaded rod is "aimed" at the hole in the top of the Z-stage.
* Lube the rods with some dry silicone lubricant (spray on rag, wipe onto rods). 3-in-1 oil can be used, too, but it's messier.
* Even the second cube seemed to have problems at the lower layers. We may yet have gremlins in our temperature or feed rate settings. On a large, flat surface, pairs of neighboring threads would sometimes twist and raise from the raft on the first layer.
* While fiddling around with a few more prints, the 'bot occasionally just stopped mid-print (when printing from SD card or a tethered PC). The Internet says this can be a communication problem when tethered or a later communication problem due to RF interference. We need to twist our cables to reduce RFI.

File:Thing0 thing1.jpg

2011-04-05T16:40:35Z

Shrapnel: Thing #0 and Thing #1, two 20mm calibration cubes.

Thing #0 and Thing #1, two 20mm calibration cubes.

File:Makerbot printing cube2.jpg

2011-04-05T16:37:52Z

Shrapnel: Collexion Makerbot printing Thing #1, another 20mm calibration cube.

Collexion Makerbot printing Thing #1, another 20mm calibration cube.

File:Makerbot printing cube1.jpg

2011-04-05T16:32:03Z

Shrapnel: Collexion Makerbot printing Thing #1, another 20mm calibration cube.

Collexion Makerbot printing Thing #1, another 20mm calibration cube.

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-03-24T02:30:10Z

Shrapnel: Added 3/23 build

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

'''GATHER TIMELAPSE FRAMES!!'''
We'll put them together into a video at the end of the build.
* <nowiki>while true; do sleep 10; wget http://172.30.1.253/jpg/image.jpg; mv image.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done</nowiki>
or, remotely:
*<nowiki>while true; do sleep 60; wget http://lamecam.com/collexion/cam0.jpg; mv cam0.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done;</nowiki>

(as of Mon Feb 28 00:30 this is now happening server-side on lamecam. Bit late, I know, but...)

== 2/26/2011 — Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ==

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side. This may be too narrow, but we have spares.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight (UPDATE: it's [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/t-309109/man-that-s-a-tight-fit supposed to be that way]). It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - X-stage (Automated Build Platform)
* FINISHED - Y-stage
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly in progress (Next step: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc59 Superglue spacer feet to support].)
* Electronics mounting in progress

'''For next time:'''
* <strike>Check X-stage belt's tooth count; it's really loose, and it may be the wrong one</strike> -- It appears that the X-stage motor just needs to be adjusted by pulling the left top cap off the Y-stage assembly and sliding the motor to take up the slack.
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

== 3/2/2011 — Second build session. Massive progress. ==

[[File:session_2_photo_1.jpg|thumb|border|Collexion folk working through the electronics, extruder, and body assembly]]
With the X, Y, and Z stages complete, we took to assembling the body, mounting the rest of the electronics, and continuing work on the extruder.

It didn't seem that there was a good way to mount the extruder control board. If mounted as directed, it would be just about impossible to reach the USB port for firmware updates, and wires would need to be run to the screw terminals before the board was mounted to the bottom of the box because of clearance issues with the main motherboard. We turned it around to make the RJ-45, USB, and screw terminals face the outsides of the machine, but the included RJ-45 cable's strain relief boot is too long to fit inside the box when it's plugged into the extruder board. We're going to try making a custom cable as a remedy; cable, ends, and crimpers are living at the space.

There were two problems attaching the Y motor to the acrylic middle piece. The first was that in tightening the mounting bolts, we split the acrylic in at least three of the four mounting slots. The splits are small, but may lengthen under operating conditions. Here's hoping that doesn't happen, since we still haven't figured out how to get replacement wooden/acrylic parts for the machine.

The second problem was that the motor needed to be mounted all the way at the back of its slots to keep tension on the Y-axis toothed belt. Unfortunately, one of the mounting slots shares real estate with a T-joint slot in the acrylic, and the motor mounting bolt interferes with the nut for a T-joint mounting bolt. We may be able to just carefully cram everything in, but it won't be easy.

[[File:session_2_photo_2.jpg|thumb|border|The box is shaping up! Extruder, too!]]
The body assembly instructions never really say at what point you're supposed to screw the body together. We're just going to do it. The body setup also calls for five M4x50mm bolts, but our kit only contained three. We've only needed one so far, so our fingers are crossed.

We didn't have any high-temperature solder on hand for the heater resistors, so we used regular solder. One of our builders said he'd read that regular solder may give up the ghost after around 100 hours of use. We should revisit those solder joints when we've procured some of the high-temp stuff. It should be available from plumbing supply stores or maybe even Harbor Freight.

There's a step in the extruder instructions that says to "[http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc75 solder the red/black wire to the motor wires]". That didn't make much sense; it sounds like the instructions want you to connect the heater to the wires from one of the motors in the machine, but it doesn't say which one! On further reading, it sounds like "motor wires" refers to the physical properties of the wire and not the system to which it's connected. The directions could be clearer (a sentiment echoed several times during this build session).

Lots of progress. We might have this thing licked at our next build session!

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Mounting electronics

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly
* Body assembly

'''For next time:'''
* Adjust the X-stage drive belt; pull off the Y-stage's left top cap, loosen motor mount bolts, slide the motor back until all the slack is out of the belt, and retighten.
* Build an RJ-45-terminated cable for the extruder control board
* Finish extruder assembly (Next step? Maybe [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc76 Insulate wires]?)
* Test extruder per instructions
* Finish body assembly
** Screw the body panels together for real
** Finish securing the XY stage rods as detailed in: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc17 Adding XY stage]
** Then resume the build at: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc21 Adding Z stage]

== 3/9/2011 — Build Session The Thirde. ==

Misery and woe!

[[File:cracked_acrylic.jpg|thumb|border|After a week, our acrylic looked terrible]]
We arrived in the evening to find our acrylic middle piece cracked at every hole, with cracks spiderwebbing everywhere. It seems that we overtightened the mounting bolts. Since the piece was fine last week and hasn't been touched since, we're blaming thermal expansion/contraction for the mess. We attempted to solve the problem by drilling a stop hole at the end of each crack and then spreading epoxy over the length of the crack.

Ultimately, the acrylic probably needs to be replaced. We still haven't figured out how to order single structural parts from Makerbot Industries.

[[File:extruder_fix.jpg|thumb|border|Stepstruder foot fix]]
In addition, we found that one of the stepstruder's feet had been superglued into place with the wrong side facing out. It needed to be flipped end over end. The bolt holes in the left and right feet didn't have the same spacing from front to back, meaning the stepstruder would sit kitty-cornered on the Z-stage platform, one edge hanging off the front. We were able to pry the bottom-most superglued plate off the misaligned foot, but the next piece that joined the two extruder halves was tightly glued in tongue-and-groove. We used needle files to lengthen the hex hole for the 4mm nut into a slot in the acrylic, which let us use the mounting nut in the proper location without further extruder disassembly.

The Makerbot's OEM ATX power supply was defective. It refused to power on at all. We scavenged a power supply from one of the machines in the space and the motherboard and daughterboards fired right up.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Replaced the RJ-45 serial cable with a more bendy one to solve bend radius issue with the supplied one's boot.
* FINISHED - Stepstruder assembly. Since we'd used lead-free tin solder on the heating resistors, we decided that was good enough, vs. finding some silver solder later.
* FINISHED - Z-stage mounting.
* FINISHED - XY-stage mounting.

'''In Progress:'''
* Stepstruder electronics assembly
* Stepstruder mounting (complete?)
* Body assembly (almost complete)

'''For next time:'''
* [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-electronics-assembly Stepstruder electronics assembly]. Initial resistance tests pass. Calibrating the Z-axis stepper controller board potentiometers is done but should be re-checked carefully. The only thing left, other than that, is wiring the stepstruder stuff to the extruder controller board.
* Finish body assembly, mount power supply and electronics.
* [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:testing-your-bot Start testing!]

== 3/16/2011 — All Wired Up. ==

We managed to complete the mechanical and electronic assembly. We had just enough time to hook the 'bot up to ReplicatorG for some motor tests, but we were met with the dreaded "Toolhead 0: not found" message. Our wiring was amiss! We left the body unattached to its base, with heavy hearts and an eye toward next week's session.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Stepstruder electronics assembly.
* FINISHED - Stepstruder mounting.
* FINISHED - Body assembly (minus attaching the base, pending wiring diagnostics)

'''In Progress:'''
* Initial electrical tests

'''For next time:'''
* Continue [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:testing-your-bot Testing Your Bot].
* Finish body assembly, mount power supply and electronics.

== 3/23/2011 — Hot Wet Circuits. ==

We repaired some wiring, extended some wiring, and found a number of polarity or connection mistakes. For instance, the silkscreen on the ABP has the wrong polarity for the conveyor motor—we had to connect red to - and black to +, as shown in the photo in the assembly instructions.

In last week's build, we accidentally pulled a wire out of the extruder motor cooling fan. We'd attempted a repair, but it turned out to be unsuccessful. The fan is DOA. We replaced it with an old CPU cooling fan scrounged from a basement.

The Z-axis stepper control board is malfunctioning. Some of the time, the Z stepper works fine. Some of the time, it only moves down (noisily). Some of the time, it doesn't move at all. In the latter case, the onboard voltage regulator gets ''very'' hot ''very'' quickly. When it's working, touching or fiddling with the wires at the control board connection causes it to fail, but only if the stepper motor is connected to the other end of the cable. It seems like a mechanical connection problem that's causing an unexpected ground. As of yet unsolved.

We cranked up the temperatures on the ABP and the extruder. After fixing the temperature sensor wiring on the ABP, everything worked well. We noticed strange condensation inside the ABP's conveyor belt when we drove the belt motor through ReplicatorG. No one, including Google, could explain it.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Wiring fixes.
* FINISHED - Temperatures tested.
* FINISHED - Limiting switches tested.
* FINISHED - X-axis tested.
* FINISHED - Y-axis tested.

'''In Progress:'''
* Z-axis and extruder tests.

'''For next time:'''
* Continue [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:testing-your-bot Testing Your Bot]. We need to get to the root of the Z-axis strangeness and find out why the extruder motor isn't motoring.
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-03-24T01:21:32Z

Shrapnel: Added summary for 3/16 build session

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

'''GATHER TIMELAPSE FRAMES!!'''
We'll put them together into a video at the end of the build.
* <nowiki>while true; do sleep 10; wget http://172.30.1.253/jpg/image.jpg; mv image.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done</nowiki>
or, remotely:
*<nowiki>while true; do sleep 60; wget http://lamecam.com/collexion/cam0.jpg; mv cam0.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done;</nowiki>

(as of Mon Feb 28 00:30 this is now happening server-side on lamecam. Bit late, I know, but...)

== 2/26/2011 — Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ==

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side. This may be too narrow, but we have spares.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight (UPDATE: it's [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/t-309109/man-that-s-a-tight-fit supposed to be that way]). It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - X-stage (Automated Build Platform)
* FINISHED - Y-stage
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly in progress (Next step: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc59 Superglue spacer feet to support].)
* Electronics mounting in progress

'''For next time:'''
* <strike>Check X-stage belt's tooth count; it's really loose, and it may be the wrong one</strike> -- It appears that the X-stage motor just needs to be adjusted by pulling the left top cap off the Y-stage assembly and sliding the motor to take up the slack.
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

== 3/2/2011 — Second build session. Massive progress. ==

[[File:session_2_photo_1.jpg|thumb|border|Collexion folk working through the electronics, extruder, and body assembly]]
With the X, Y, and Z stages complete, we took to assembling the body, mounting the rest of the electronics, and continuing work on the extruder.

It didn't seem that there was a good way to mount the extruder control board. If mounted as directed, it would be just about impossible to reach the USB port for firmware updates, and wires would need to be run to the screw terminals before the board was mounted to the bottom of the box because of clearance issues with the main motherboard. We turned it around to make the RJ-45, USB, and screw terminals face the outsides of the machine, but the included RJ-45 cable's strain relief boot is too long to fit inside the box when it's plugged into the extruder board. We're going to try making a custom cable as a remedy; cable, ends, and crimpers are living at the space.

There were two problems attaching the Y motor to the acrylic middle piece. The first was that in tightening the mounting bolts, we split the acrylic in at least three of the four mounting slots. The splits are small, but may lengthen under operating conditions. Here's hoping that doesn't happen, since we still haven't figured out how to get replacement wooden/acrylic parts for the machine.

The second problem was that the motor needed to be mounted all the way at the back of its slots to keep tension on the Y-axis toothed belt. Unfortunately, one of the mounting slots shares real estate with a T-joint slot in the acrylic, and the motor mounting bolt interferes with the nut for a T-joint mounting bolt. We may be able to just carefully cram everything in, but it won't be easy.

[[File:session_2_photo_2.jpg|thumb|border|The box is shaping up! Extruder, too!]]
The body assembly instructions never really say at what point you're supposed to screw the body together. We're just going to do it. The body setup also calls for five M4x50mm bolts, but our kit only contained three. We've only needed one so far, so our fingers are crossed.

We didn't have any high-temperature solder on hand for the heater resistors, so we used regular solder. One of our builders said he'd read that regular solder may give up the ghost after around 100 hours of use. We should revisit those solder joints when we've procured some of the high-temp stuff. It should be available from plumbing supply stores or maybe even Harbor Freight.

There's a step in the extruder instructions that says to "[http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc75 solder the red/black wire to the motor wires]". That didn't make much sense; it sounds like the instructions want you to connect the heater to the wires from one of the motors in the machine, but it doesn't say which one! On further reading, it sounds like "motor wires" refers to the physical properties of the wire and not the system to which it's connected. The directions could be clearer (a sentiment echoed several times during this build session).

Lots of progress. We might have this thing licked at our next build session!

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Mounting electronics

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly
* Body assembly

'''For next time:'''
* Adjust the X-stage drive belt; pull off the Y-stage's left top cap, loosen motor mount bolts, slide the motor back until all the slack is out of the belt, and retighten.
* Build an RJ-45-terminated cable for the extruder control board
* Finish extruder assembly (Next step? Maybe [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc76 Insulate wires]?)
* Test extruder per instructions
* Finish body assembly
** Screw the body panels together for real
** Finish securing the XY stage rods as detailed in: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc17 Adding XY stage]
** Then resume the build at: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc21 Adding Z stage]

== 3/9/2011 — Build Session The Thirde. ==

Misery and woe!

[[File:cracked_acrylic.jpg|thumb|border|After a week, our acrylic looked terrible]]
We arrived in the evening to find our acrylic middle piece cracked at every hole, with cracks spiderwebbing everywhere. It seems that we overtightened the mounting bolts. Since the piece was fine last week and hasn't been touched since, we're blaming thermal expansion/contraction for the mess. We attempted to solve the problem by drilling a stop hole at the end of each crack and then spreading epoxy over the length of the crack.

Ultimately, the acrylic probably needs to be replaced. We still haven't figured out how to order single structural parts from Makerbot Industries.

[[File:extruder_fix.jpg|thumb|border|Stepstruder foot fix]]
In addition, we found that one of the stepstruder's feet had been superglued into place with the wrong side facing out. It needed to be flipped end over end. The bolt holes in the left and right feet didn't have the same spacing from front to back, meaning the stepstruder would sit kitty-cornered on the Z-stage platform, one edge hanging off the front. We were able to pry the bottom-most superglued plate off the misaligned foot, but the next piece that joined the two extruder halves was tightly glued in tongue-and-groove. We used needle files to lengthen the hex hole for the 4mm nut into a slot in the acrylic, which let us use the mounting nut in the proper location without further extruder disassembly.

The Makerbot's OEM ATX power supply was defective. It refused to power on at all. We scavenged a power supply from one of the machines in the space and the motherboard and daughterboards fired right up.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Replaced the RJ-45 serial cable with a more bendy one to solve bend radius issue with the supplied one's boot.
* FINISHED - Stepstruder assembly. Since we'd used lead-free tin solder on the heating resistors, we decided that was good enough, vs. finding some silver solder later.
* FINISHED - Z-stage mounting.
* FINISHED - XY-stage mounting.

'''In Progress:'''
* Stepstruder electronics assembly
* Stepstruder mounting (complete?)
* Body assembly (almost complete)

'''For next time:'''
* [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-electronics-assembly Stepstruder electronics assembly]. Initial resistance tests pass. Calibrating the Z-axis stepper controller board potentiometers is done but should be re-checked carefully. The only thing left, other than that, is wiring the stepstruder stuff to the extruder controller board.
* Finish body assembly, mount power supply and electronics.
* [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:testing-your-bot Start testing!]
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

== 3/16/2011 — All Wired Up. ==

We managed to complete the mechanical and electronic assembly. We had just enough time to hook the 'bot up to ReplicatorG for some motor tests, but we were met with the dreaded "Toolhead 0: not found" message. Our wiring was amiss! We left the body unattached to its base, with heavy hearts and an eye toward next week's session.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Stepstruder electronics assembly.
* FINISHED - Stepstruder mounting.
* FINISHED - Body assembly (minus attaching the base, pending wiring diagnostics)

'''In Progress:'''
* Initial electrical tests

'''For next time:'''
* Continue [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:testing-your-bot Testing Your Bot].
* Finish body assembly, mount power supply and electronics.
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

Soldering Workshop

2011-03-17T20:58:02Z

Shrapnel: Added ticketing provider comparison

Conduct a soldering workshop to educate the community and drum up interest in DIY activities!

== Project ideas: ==
* [http://www.solarbotics.net/library/circuits/bot_pummer.html Solar-powered Pummer] nocturnal light flasher (cost + parts list? $15-$20?)
* [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20&products_id=73 TV-B-Gone] mischief-maker ($19.50 @ AdaFruit)
* [http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9205 Alarm Clock] ($24.95 @ Sparkfun)
* [http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10212 Electronic Dice] ($19.95 @ Sparkfun)
* [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=14 MintyBoost] ($19.50 @ AdaFruit)
* [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=19&products_id=91 USB BoarDuino] ($25.00 @ AdaFruit)

Note: AdaFruit offers a [http://www.adafruit.com/blog/2010/06/01/big-news-all-hacker-spaces-in-the-world-get-adafruit-reseller-pricing-starting-today/ 40% discount] on kits purchased by hackerspaces, with a $250 minimum order. That's probably $250 post-discount, right?

== Workshop Organization: ==
* Borrow soldering irons from the community, purchase as few as possible (40W+).
* Make sure the space has solder, flux, desoldering braid, and tip-cleaning supplies like cellulose sponges.
* Find a way to project live video for instructor demonstration.
* Advertise, maybe point out common uses for soldering?

== Ticketing ==
* [http://www.eventbrite.com EventBrite]
** Fees:
*** $0.99 + 2.5% of ticket price
*** plus 3% for EventBrite credit card processing
*** Google Checkout or PayPal supported (PayPal per-ticket $0.30 + about 3%, Google Checkout fees unknown)
** Checkins: Web, native iPhone app, 3rd-party Android app
* [http://www.ticketleap.com TicketLeap]
** Fees:
*** $1.00/ticket under $10 ticket price
*** $2.00/ticket over $10 ticket price
*** plus 5% for TicketLeap credit card processing
*** PayPal supported (per-ticket $0.30 + about 3%)
** Checkins: Web, mobile web, native Android app
* [http://www.ticketbud.com TicketBud]
** Fees:
*** $20 flat fee per event
*** Paypal per-ticket fees $0.30 + about 3%
** Checkins: Web, native iPhone app, native Android app

Soldering Workshop

2011-03-17T18:19:54Z

Shrapnel: Created page with "Conduct a soldering workshop to educate the community and drum up interest in DIY activities! == Project ideas: == * [http://www.solarbotics.net/library/circuits/bot_pummer.htm..."

Fundraising

2011-03-17T17:42:45Z

Shrapnel:

Some easy and quick fund raising ideas:
* Make Magazine Subscriptions
* Affiliate links. Open affiliate accounts with [https://affiliate-program.amazon.com/| Amazon Associates] and other retailers. Encourage members to use those links when making purchases.
* Collexion logo merchandise - Use cafepress or the like to sell Collexion logo stuff.
* Workshops
** [[Soldering Workshop]]
** Microcontroller Programming (a la [[MSP430 Workshop notes 2/27/2011|TI MSP430]] or Arduino)

Collexion's [[Finances]]

Fundraising

2011-03-17T17:42:14Z

Shrapnel: Added Workshops to fundraising ideas

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-03-16T16:50:12Z

Shrapnel: /* 3/9/2011 — Build Session The Thirde. */

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

'''GATHER TIMELAPSE FRAMES!!'''
We'll put them together into a video at the end of the build.
* <nowiki>while true; do sleep 10; wget http://172.30.1.253/jpg/image.jpg; mv image.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done</nowiki>
or, remotely:
*<nowiki>while true; do sleep 60; wget http://lamecam.com/collexion/cam0.jpg; mv cam0.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done;</nowiki>

(as of Mon Feb 28 00:30 this is now happening server-side on lamecam. Bit late, I know, but...)

== 2/26/2011 — Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ==

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side. This may be too narrow, but we have spares.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight (UPDATE: it's [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/t-309109/man-that-s-a-tight-fit supposed to be that way]). It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - X-stage (Automated Build Platform)
* FINISHED - Y-stage
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly in progress (Next step: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc59 Superglue spacer feet to support].)
* Electronics mounting in progress

'''For next time:'''
* <strike>Check X-stage belt's tooth count; it's really loose, and it may be the wrong one</strike> -- It appears that the X-stage motor just needs to be adjusted by pulling the left top cap off the Y-stage assembly and sliding the motor to take up the slack.
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

== 3/2/2011 — Second build session. Massive progress. ==

[[File:session_2_photo_1.jpg|thumb|border|Collexion folk working through the electronics, extruder, and body assembly]]
With the X, Y, and Z stages complete, we took to assembling the body, mounting the rest of the electronics, and continuing work on the extruder.

It didn't seem that there was a good way to mount the extruder control board. If mounted as directed, it would be just about impossible to reach the USB port for firmware updates, and wires would need to be run to the screw terminals before the board was mounted to the bottom of the box because of clearance issues with the main motherboard. We turned it around to make the RJ-45, USB, and screw terminals face the outsides of the machine, but the included RJ-45 cable's strain relief boot is too long to fit inside the box when it's plugged into the extruder board. We're going to try making a custom cable as a remedy; cable, ends, and crimpers are living at the space.

There were two problems attaching the Y motor to the acrylic middle piece. The first was that in tightening the mounting bolts, we split the acrylic in at least three of the four mounting slots. The splits are small, but may lengthen under operating conditions. Here's hoping that doesn't happen, since we still haven't figured out how to get replacement wooden/acrylic parts for the machine.

The second problem was that the motor needed to be mounted all the way at the back of its slots to keep tension on the Y-axis toothed belt. Unfortunately, one of the mounting slots shares real estate with a T-joint slot in the acrylic, and the motor mounting bolt interferes with the nut for a T-joint mounting bolt. We may be able to just carefully cram everything in, but it won't be easy.

[[File:session_2_photo_2.jpg|thumb|border|The box is shaping up! Extruder, too!]]
The body assembly instructions never really say at what point you're supposed to screw the body together. We're just going to do it. The body setup also calls for five M4x50mm bolts, but our kit only contained three. We've only needed one so far, so our fingers are crossed.

We didn't have any high-temperature solder on hand for the heater resistors, so we used regular solder. One of our builders said he'd read that regular solder may give up the ghost after around 100 hours of use. We should revisit those solder joints when we've procured some of the high-temp stuff. It should be available from plumbing supply stores or maybe even Harbor Freight.

There's a step in the extruder instructions that says to "[http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc75 solder the red/black wire to the motor wires]". That didn't make much sense; it sounds like the instructions want you to connect the heater to the wires from one of the motors in the machine, but it doesn't say which one! On further reading, it sounds like "motor wires" refers to the physical properties of the wire and not the system to which it's connected. The directions could be clearer (a sentiment echoed several times during this build session).

Lots of progress. We might have this thing licked at our next build session!

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Mounting electronics

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly
* Body assembly

'''For next time:'''
* Adjust the X-stage drive belt; pull off the Y-stage's left top cap, loosen motor mount bolts, slide the motor back until all the slack is out of the belt, and retighten.
* Build an RJ-45-terminated cable for the extruder control board
* Finish extruder assembly (Next step? Maybe [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc76 Insulate wires]?)
* Test extruder per instructions
* Finish body assembly
** Screw the body panels together for real
** Finish securing the XY stage rods as detailed in: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc17 Adding XY stage]
** Then resume the build at: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc21 Adding Z stage]

== 3/9/2011 — Build Session The Thirde. ==

Misery and woe!

[[File:cracked_acrylic.jpg|thumb|border|After a week, our acrylic looked terrible]]
We arrived in the evening to find our acrylic middle piece cracked at every hole, with cracks spiderwebbing everywhere. It seems that we overtightened the mounting bolts. Since the piece was fine last week and hasn't been touched since, we're blaming thermal expansion/contraction for the mess. We attempted to solve the problem by drilling a stop hole at the end of each crack and then spreading epoxy over the length of the crack.

Ultimately, the acrylic probably needs to be replaced. We still haven't figured out how to order single structural parts from Makerbot Industries.

[[File:extruder_fix.jpg|thumb|border|Stepstruder foot fix]]
In addition, we found that one of the stepstruder's feet had been superglued into place with the wrong side facing out. It needed to be flipped end over end. The bolt holes in the left and right feet didn't have the same spacing from front to back, meaning the stepstruder would sit kitty-cornered on the Z-stage platform, one edge hanging off the front. We were able to pry the bottom-most superglued plate off the misaligned foot, but the next piece that joined the two extruder halves was tightly glued in tongue-and-groove. We used needle files to lengthen the hex hole for the 4mm nut into a slot in the acrylic, which let us use the mounting nut in the proper location without further extruder disassembly.

The Makerbot's OEM ATX power supply was defective. It refused to power on at all. We scavenged a power supply from one of the machines in the space and the motherboard and daughterboards fired right up.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Replaced the RJ-45 serial cable with a more bendy one to solve bend radius issue with the supplied one's boot.
* FINISHED - Stepstruder assembly. Since we'd used lead-free tin solder on the heating resistors, we decided that was good enough, vs. finding some silver solder later.
* FINISHED - Z-stage mounting.
* FINISHED - XY-stage mounting.

'''In Progress:'''
* Stepstruder electronics assembly
* Stepstruder mounting (complete?)
* Body assembly (almost complete)

'''For next time:'''
* [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-electronics-assembly Stepstruder electronics assembly]. Initial resistance tests pass. Calibrating the Z-axis stepper controller board potentiometers is done but should be re-checked carefully. The only thing left, other than that, is wiring the stepstruder stuff to the extruder controller board.
* Finish body assembly, mount power supply and electronics.
* [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:testing-your-bot Start testing!]
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-03-16T16:48:52Z

Shrapnel: Added photos for problems encountered @ last build session

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

'''GATHER TIMELAPSE FRAMES!!'''
We'll put them together into a video at the end of the build.
* <nowiki>while true; do sleep 10; wget http://172.30.1.253/jpg/image.jpg; mv image.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done</nowiki>
or, remotely:
*<nowiki>while true; do sleep 60; wget http://lamecam.com/collexion/cam0.jpg; mv cam0.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done;</nowiki>

(as of Mon Feb 28 00:30 this is now happening server-side on lamecam. Bit late, I know, but...)

== 2/26/2011 — Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ==

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side. This may be too narrow, but we have spares.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight (UPDATE: it's [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/t-309109/man-that-s-a-tight-fit supposed to be that way]). It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - X-stage (Automated Build Platform)
* FINISHED - Y-stage
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly in progress (Next step: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc59 Superglue spacer feet to support].)
* Electronics mounting in progress

'''For next time:'''
* <strike>Check X-stage belt's tooth count; it's really loose, and it may be the wrong one</strike> -- It appears that the X-stage motor just needs to be adjusted by pulling the left top cap off the Y-stage assembly and sliding the motor to take up the slack.
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

== 3/2/2011 — Second build session. Massive progress. ==

[[File:session_2_photo_1.jpg|thumb|border|Collexion folk working through the electronics, extruder, and body assembly]]
With the X, Y, and Z stages complete, we took to assembling the body, mounting the rest of the electronics, and continuing work on the extruder.

It didn't seem that there was a good way to mount the extruder control board. If mounted as directed, it would be just about impossible to reach the USB port for firmware updates, and wires would need to be run to the screw terminals before the board was mounted to the bottom of the box because of clearance issues with the main motherboard. We turned it around to make the RJ-45, USB, and screw terminals face the outsides of the machine, but the included RJ-45 cable's strain relief boot is too long to fit inside the box when it's plugged into the extruder board. We're going to try making a custom cable as a remedy; cable, ends, and crimpers are living at the space.

There were two problems attaching the Y motor to the acrylic middle piece. The first was that in tightening the mounting bolts, we split the acrylic in at least three of the four mounting slots. The splits are small, but may lengthen under operating conditions. Here's hoping that doesn't happen, since we still haven't figured out how to get replacement wooden/acrylic parts for the machine.

The second problem was that the motor needed to be mounted all the way at the back of its slots to keep tension on the Y-axis toothed belt. Unfortunately, one of the mounting slots shares real estate with a T-joint slot in the acrylic, and the motor mounting bolt interferes with the nut for a T-joint mounting bolt. We may be able to just carefully cram everything in, but it won't be easy.

[[File:session_2_photo_2.jpg|thumb|border|The box is shaping up! Extruder, too!]]
The body assembly instructions never really say at what point you're supposed to screw the body together. We're just going to do it. The body setup also calls for five M4x50mm bolts, but our kit only contained three. We've only needed one so far, so our fingers are crossed.

We didn't have any high-temperature solder on hand for the heater resistors, so we used regular solder. One of our builders said he'd read that regular solder may give up the ghost after around 100 hours of use. We should revisit those solder joints when we've procured some of the high-temp stuff. It should be available from plumbing supply stores or maybe even Harbor Freight.

There's a step in the extruder instructions that says to "[http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc75 solder the red/black wire to the motor wires]". That didn't make much sense; it sounds like the instructions want you to connect the heater to the wires from one of the motors in the machine, but it doesn't say which one! On further reading, it sounds like "motor wires" refers to the physical properties of the wire and not the system to which it's connected. The directions could be clearer (a sentiment echoed several times during this build session).

Lots of progress. We might have this thing licked at our next build session!

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Mounting electronics

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly
* Body assembly

'''For next time:'''
* Adjust the X-stage drive belt; pull off the Y-stage's left top cap, loosen motor mount bolts, slide the motor back until all the slack is out of the belt, and retighten.
* Build an RJ-45-terminated cable for the extruder control board
* Finish extruder assembly (Next step? Maybe [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc76 Insulate wires]?)
* Test extruder per instructions
* Finish body assembly
** Screw the body panels together for real
** Finish securing the XY stage rods as detailed in: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc17 Adding XY stage]
** Then resume the build at: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc21 Adding Z stage]

== 3/9/2011 — Build Session The Thirde. ==

Misery and woe!

[[File:cracked_acrylic.jpg|thumb|border|After a week, our acrylic looked terrible]]
We arrived in the evening to find our acrylic middle piece cracked at every hole, with cracks spiderwebbing everywhere. It seems that we overtightened the mounting bolts. Since the piece was fine last week and hasn't been touched since, we're blaming thermal expansion/contraction for the mess. We attempted to solve the problem by drilling a stop hole at the end of each crack and then spreading epoxy over the length of the crack.

Ultimately, the acrylic probably needs to be replaced. We still haven't figured out how to order single structural parts from Makerbot Industries.

[[File:extruder_fix.jpg|thumb|border|Stepstruder foot fix]]
In addition, we found that one of the stepstruder's feet had been superglued into place with the wrong side facing out. It needed to be flipped end over end. The bolt holes in the left and right feet didn't have the same spacing from front to back, meaning the stepstruder would sit kitty-cornered on the Z-stage platform, one edge hanging off the front. We were able to pry the bottom-most superglued plate off the misaligned foot, but the next piece that joined the two extruder halves was tightly glued in tongue-and-groove. We used needle files to lengthen the hex hole for the 4mm nut into a slot in the acrylic, which let us use the mounting nut in the proper location without further extruder disassembly.

The Makerbot's OEM ATX power supply was defective. It refused to power on at all. We scavenged a power supply from one of the machines in the space and the motherboard and daughterboards fired right up.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Replaced the RJ-45 serial cable with a more bendy one to solve bend radius issue with the supplied one's boot.
* FINISHED - Stepstruder assembly. Since we'd used lead-free tin solder on the heating resistors, we decided that was good enough, vs. finding some silver solder later.
* FINISHED - Z-stage mounting.
* FINISHED - XY-stage mounting.

'''In Progress:'''
* Stepstruder electronics assembly
* Stepstruder mounting (complete?)
* Body assembly (almost complete)

'''For next time:'''
* [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-electronics-assembly Stepstruder electronics assembly]. Initial resistance tests pass. Calibrating the Z-axis stepper controller board potentiometers is done but should be re-checked carefully. The only thing left, other than that, is wiring the stepstruder stuff to the extruder controller board.
* Finish body assembly, mount power supply and electronics.
* [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:testing-your-bot Start testing!]
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

File:Extruder fix.jpg

2011-03-16T16:39:45Z

Shrapnel: Slot carved into the acrylic to compensate for incorrectly-assembled extruder foot.

Slot carved into the acrylic to compensate for incorrectly-assembled extruder foot.

File:Cracked acrylic.jpg

2011-03-16T16:38:45Z

Shrapnel: Cracks around every hole in the acrylic, some worse than others.

Cracks around every hole in the acrylic, some worse than others.

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-03-16T16:12:27Z

Shrapnel: /* 3/9/2011 — Build Session The Thirde. */

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

'''GATHER TIMELAPSE FRAMES!!'''
We'll put them together into a video at the end of the build.
* <nowiki>while true; do sleep 10; wget http://172.30.1.253/jpg/image.jpg; mv image.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done</nowiki>
or, remotely:
*<nowiki>while true; do sleep 60; wget http://lamecam.com/collexion/cam0.jpg; mv cam0.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done;</nowiki>

(as of Mon Feb 28 00:30 this is now happening server-side on lamecam. Bit late, I know, but...)

== 2/26/2011 — Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ==

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side. This may be too narrow, but we have spares.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight (UPDATE: it's [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/t-309109/man-that-s-a-tight-fit supposed to be that way]). It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - X-stage (Automated Build Platform)
* FINISHED - Y-stage
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly in progress (Next step: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc59 Superglue spacer feet to support].)
* Electronics mounting in progress

'''For next time:'''
* <strike>Check X-stage belt's tooth count; it's really loose, and it may be the wrong one</strike> -- It appears that the X-stage motor just needs to be adjusted by pulling the left top cap off the Y-stage assembly and sliding the motor to take up the slack.
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

== 3/2/2011 — Second build session. Massive progress. ==

[[File:session_2_photo_1.jpg|thumb|border|Collexion folk working through the electronics, extruder, and body assembly]]
With the X, Y, and Z stages complete, we took to assembling the body, mounting the rest of the electronics, and continuing work on the extruder.

It didn't seem that there was a good way to mount the extruder control board. If mounted as directed, it would be just about impossible to reach the USB port for firmware updates, and wires would need to be run to the screw terminals before the board was mounted to the bottom of the box because of clearance issues with the main motherboard. We turned it around to make the RJ-45, USB, and screw terminals face the outsides of the machine, but the included RJ-45 cable's strain relief boot is too long to fit inside the box when it's plugged into the extruder board. We're going to try making a custom cable as a remedy; cable, ends, and crimpers are living at the space.

There were two problems attaching the Y motor to the acrylic middle piece. The first was that in tightening the mounting bolts, we split the acrylic in at least three of the four mounting slots. The splits are small, but may lengthen under operating conditions. Here's hoping that doesn't happen, since we still haven't figured out how to get replacement wooden/acrylic parts for the machine.

The second problem was that the motor needed to be mounted all the way at the back of its slots to keep tension on the Y-axis toothed belt. Unfortunately, one of the mounting slots shares real estate with a T-joint slot in the acrylic, and the motor mounting bolt interferes with the nut for a T-joint mounting bolt. We may be able to just carefully cram everything in, but it won't be easy.

[[File:session_2_photo_2.jpg|thumb|border|The box is shaping up! Extruder, too!]]
The body assembly instructions never really say at what point you're supposed to screw the body together. We're just going to do it. The body setup also calls for five M4x50mm bolts, but our kit only contained three. We've only needed one so far, so our fingers are crossed.

We didn't have any high-temperature solder on hand for the heater resistors, so we used regular solder. One of our builders said he'd read that regular solder may give up the ghost after around 100 hours of use. We should revisit those solder joints when we've procured some of the high-temp stuff. It should be available from plumbing supply stores or maybe even Harbor Freight.

There's a step in the extruder instructions that says to "[http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc75 solder the red/black wire to the motor wires]". That didn't make much sense; it sounds like the instructions want you to connect the heater to the wires from one of the motors in the machine, but it doesn't say which one! On further reading, it sounds like "motor wires" refers to the physical properties of the wire and not the system to which it's connected. The directions could be clearer (a sentiment echoed several times during this build session).

Lots of progress. We might have this thing licked at our next build session!

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Mounting electronics

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly
* Body assembly

'''For next time:'''
* Adjust the X-stage drive belt; pull off the Y-stage's left top cap, loosen motor mount bolts, slide the motor back until all the slack is out of the belt, and retighten.
* Build an RJ-45-terminated cable for the extruder control board
* Finish extruder assembly (Next step? Maybe [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc76 Insulate wires]?)
* Test extruder per instructions
* Finish body assembly
** Screw the body panels together for real
** Finish securing the XY stage rods as detailed in: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc17 Adding XY stage]
** Then resume the build at: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc21 Adding Z stage]

== 3/9/2011 — Build Session The Thirde. ==

Misery and woe!

We arrived in the evening to find our acrylic middle piece cracked at every hole, with cracks spiderwebbing everywhere. It seems that we overtightened the mounting bolts. Since the piece was fine last week and hasn't been touched since, we're blaming thermal expansion/contraction for the mess. We attempted to solve the problem by drilling a stop hole at the end of each crack and then spreading epoxy over the length of the crack.

Ultimately, the acrylic probably needs to be replaced. We still haven't figured out how to order single structural parts from Makerbot Industries.

In addition, we found that one of the stepstruder's feet had been superglued into place 180 degrees from its proper position. The bolt holes in the left and right feet didn't have the same spacing from front to back, meaning the stepstruder would sit kitty-cornered on the Z-stage platform, one edge hanging off the front. We were able to pry the bottom-most superglued plate off the misaligned foot, but the next piece that joined the two extruder halves was tightly glued in tongue-and-groove. We used needle files to lengthen the hex hole for the 4mm nut into a slot in the acrylic, which let us use the mounting nut in the proper location without further extruder disassembly.

The Makerbot's OEM ATX power supply was defective. It refused to power on at all. We scavenged a power supply from one of the machines in the space and the motherboard and daughterboards fired right up.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Replaced the RJ-45 serial cable with a more bendy one to solve bend radius issue with the supplied one's boot.
* FINISHED - Stepstruder assembly. Since we'd used lead-free tin solder on the heating resistors, we decided that was good enough, vs. finding some silver solder later.
* FINISHED - Z-stage mounting.
* FINISHED - XY-stage mounting.

'''In Progress:'''
* Stepstruder electronics assembly
* Stepstruder mounting (complete?)
* Body assembly (almost complete)

'''For next time:'''
* [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-electronics-assembly Stepstruder electronics assembly]. Initial resistance tests pass. Calibrating the Z-axis stepper controller board potentiometers is done but should be re-checked carefully. The only thing left, other than that, is wiring the stepstruder stuff to the extruder controller board.
* Finish body assembly, mount power supply and electronics.
* [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:testing-your-bot Start testing!]
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-03-16T15:24:07Z

Shrapnel:

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

'''GATHER TIMELAPSE FRAMES!!'''
We'll put them together into a video at the end of the build.
* <nowiki>while true; do sleep 10; wget http://172.30.1.253/jpg/image.jpg; mv image.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done</nowiki>
or, remotely:
*<nowiki>while true; do sleep 60; wget http://lamecam.com/collexion/cam0.jpg; mv cam0.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done;</nowiki>

(as of Mon Feb 28 00:30 this is now happening server-side on lamecam. Bit late, I know, but...)

== 2/26/2011 — Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ==

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side. This may be too narrow, but we have spares.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight (UPDATE: it's [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/t-309109/man-that-s-a-tight-fit supposed to be that way]). It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - X-stage (Automated Build Platform)
* FINISHED - Y-stage
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly in progress (Next step: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc59 Superglue spacer feet to support].)
* Electronics mounting in progress

'''For next time:'''
* <strike>Check X-stage belt's tooth count; it's really loose, and it may be the wrong one</strike> -- It appears that the X-stage motor just needs to be adjusted by pulling the left top cap off the Y-stage assembly and sliding the motor to take up the slack.
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

== 3/2/2011 — Second build session. Massive progress. ==

[[File:session_2_photo_1.jpg|thumb|border|Collexion folk working through the electronics, extruder, and body assembly]]
With the X, Y, and Z stages complete, we took to assembling the body, mounting the rest of the electronics, and continuing work on the extruder.

It didn't seem that there was a good way to mount the extruder control board. If mounted as directed, it would be just about impossible to reach the USB port for firmware updates, and wires would need to be run to the screw terminals before the board was mounted to the bottom of the box because of clearance issues with the main motherboard. We turned it around to make the RJ-45, USB, and screw terminals face the outsides of the machine, but the included RJ-45 cable's strain relief boot is too long to fit inside the box when it's plugged into the extruder board. We're going to try making a custom cable as a remedy; cable, ends, and crimpers are living at the space.

There were two problems attaching the Y motor to the acrylic middle piece. The first was that in tightening the mounting bolts, we split the acrylic in at least three of the four mounting slots. The splits are small, but may lengthen under operating conditions. Here's hoping that doesn't happen, since we still haven't figured out how to get replacement wooden/acrylic parts for the machine.

The second problem was that the motor needed to be mounted all the way at the back of its slots to keep tension on the Y-axis toothed belt. Unfortunately, one of the mounting slots shares real estate with a T-joint slot in the acrylic, and the motor mounting bolt interferes with the nut for a T-joint mounting bolt. We may be able to just carefully cram everything in, but it won't be easy.

[[File:session_2_photo_2.jpg|thumb|border|The box is shaping up! Extruder, too!]]
The body assembly instructions never really say at what point you're supposed to screw the body together. We're just going to do it. The body setup also calls for five M4x50mm bolts, but our kit only contained three. We've only needed one so far, so our fingers are crossed.

We didn't have any high-temperature solder on hand for the heater resistors, so we used regular solder. One of our builders said he'd read that regular solder may give up the ghost after around 100 hours of use. We should revisit those solder joints when we've procured some of the high-temp stuff. It should be available from plumbing supply stores or maybe even Harbor Freight.

There's a step in the extruder instructions that says to "[http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc75 solder the red/black wire to the motor wires]". That didn't make much sense; it sounds like the instructions want you to connect the heater to the wires from one of the motors in the machine, but it doesn't say which one! On further reading, it sounds like "motor wires" refers to the physical properties of the wire and not the system to which it's connected. The directions could be clearer (a sentiment echoed several times during this build session).

Lots of progress. We might have this thing licked at our next build session!

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Mounting electronics

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly
* Body assembly

'''For next time:'''
* Adjust the X-stage drive belt; pull off the Y-stage's left top cap, loosen motor mount bolts, slide the motor back until all the slack is out of the belt, and retighten.
* Build an RJ-45-terminated cable for the extruder control board
* Finish extruder assembly (Next step? Maybe [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc76 Insulate wires]?)
* Test extruder per instructions
* Finish body assembly
** Screw the body panels together for real
** Finish securing the XY stage rods as detailed in: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc17 Adding XY stage]
** Then resume the build at: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc21 Adding Z stage]

== 3/9/2011 — Build Session The Thirde. ==

Misery and woe!

We arrived in the evening to find our acrylic middle piece cracked at every hole, with cracks spiderwebbing everywhere. It seems that we overtightened the mounting bolts. Since the piece was fine last week and hasn't been touched since, we're blaming thermal expansion/contraction for the mess. We attempted to solve the problem by drilling a stop hole at the end of each crack and then spreading epoxy over the length of the crack.

Ultimately, the acrylic probably needs to be replaced. We still haven't figured out how to order single structural parts from Makerbot Industries.

In addition, we found that one of the stepstruder's feet had been superglued into place 180 degrees from its proper position. The bolt holes in the left and right feet didn't have the same spacing from front to back, meaning the stepstruder would sit kitty-cornered on the Z-stage platform, one edge hanging off the front. We were able to pry the bottom-most superglued plate off the misaligned foot, but the next piece that joined the two extruder halves was tightly glued in tongue-and-groove. We used needle files to lengthen the hex hole for the 4mm nut into a slot in the acrylic, which let us use the mounting nut in the proper location without further extruder disassembly.

The Makerbot's OEM ATX power supply was defective. It refused to power on at all. We scavenged a power supply from one of the machines in the space and the motherboard and daughterboards fired right up.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Replaced the RJ-45 serial cable with a more bendy one to solve bend radius issue with the supplied one's boot.
* FINISHED - Stepstruder assembly. Since we'd used lead-free tin solder on the heating resistors, we decided that was good enough, vs. finding some silver solder later.
* FINISHED - Z-stage mounting.
* FINISHED - XY-stage mounting.

'''In Progress:'''
* Stepstruder electronics assembly
* Stepstruder mounting (complete?)
* Body assembly (almost complete)

'''For next time:'''
* [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-electronics-assembly Stepstruder electronics assembly]. Initial resistance tests pass. Calibrating the Z-axis stepper controller board potentiometers is done but should be re-checked carefully. The only thing left, other than that, is wiring the stepstruder stuff to the extruder controller board.
* Finish body assembly, mount power supply and electronics.
* [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:testing-your-bot Start testing!]
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

Collexion:Current events

2011-03-09T20:03:45Z

Shrapnel:

=== March 10, 2011 - info TBA ===
CMKT4 Circuit Bending Workshop.... more info TBA

=== March 19, 2011 - info TBA ===
<strike>Soldering Workshop led by Professor Tim K</strike> Will be rescheduled, need more lead time to plan.

=== March 20, 2011 - info TBA ===
The Dan Peck Trio / Street Gnar / the KY Wildcats: info TBA

Maybe?: Half-handed Cloud

=== Saturday, March 26, 2011 2:20pm ===
5 Fun Ways to use the WebControl Class in ASP.Net by [[User:ashley | ashleygreer]]

=== April 1, 2, 3, 2011 ===
Tentative Collexion Camping Trip Weekend

=== May 7 ===
OTS Show: Nick Mazzarella Trio & Post Derby Party

=== May 12 ===
OTS Show: Great Architects

=== May 21 ===
Tatsuya Nakatani bringing his Gong Orchestra

=== Saturday night/Sunday morning, July 9/10, 2011 ===
The Chicago [http://www.lateride.org/event_info.php L.A.T.E Ride] - Road Trip!

=== July 13, 2011 - info TBA ===
Possible show/event

=== Aug 7 or 8 info TBA ===

= Regular Events =

=== Every Tuesday ===
[[Hack-All-Day Day]] at [[Collexion]] Hackerspace, 8am - 8pm. Work at the space on lame stuff or super cool stuff. Your choice! Bring friends!

=== Every Wednesday ===
Weekly Collexion General Meeting. at [[Collexion]] Hackerspace, 6pm. A formally informal get-together for nerds to talk and hack! A great time to come if you're new or hackcurious!

=== Every Thursday ===
Tech book club. [[Collexion]], 7:00pm. Current book is [[Visualizing Data (book)]].

=== Every Friday ===
[[Collexion & Friends]] Lunch Meetup, 1pm. Restaurant varies, check the email list.

=== Every Saturday ===
[[Game Night]] at [[Collexion]], 7pm. Join us as we play cool board games, video games, and mind games. Check the mailing list or IRC to see what we've got running this week.

[[Events|event archive]]

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-03-04T05:35:24Z

Shrapnel: Figured out the X-stage belt problem, added a note in "for next time"

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

'''GATHER TIMELAPSE FRAMES!!'''
We'll put them together into a video at the end of the build.
* <nowiki>while true; do sleep 10; wget http://172.30.1.253/jpg/image.jpg; mv image.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done</nowiki>
or, remotely:
*<nowiki>while true; do sleep 60; wget http://lamecam.com/collexion/cam0.jpg; mv cam0.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done;</nowiki>

(as of Mon Feb 28 00:30 this is now happening server-side on lamecam. Bit late, I know, but...)

== 2/26/2011 — Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ==

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side. This may be too narrow, but we have spares.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight (UPDATE: it's [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/t-309109/man-that-s-a-tight-fit supposed to be that way]). It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - X-stage (Automated Build Platform)
* FINISHED - Y-stage
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly in progress (Next step: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc59 Superglue spacer feet to support].)
* Electronics mounting in progress

'''For next time:'''
* <strike>Check X-stage belt's tooth count; it's really loose, and it may be the wrong one</strike> -- It appears that the X-stage motor just needs to be adjusted by pulling the left top cap off the Y-stage assembly and sliding the motor to take up the slack.
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

== 3/2/2011 — Second build session. Massive progress. ==

[[File:session_2_photo_1.jpg|thumb|border|Collexion folk working through the electronics, extruder, and body assembly]]
With the X, Y, and Z stages complete, we took to assembling the body, mounting the rest of the electronics, and continuing work on the extruder.

It didn't seem that there was a good way to mount the extruder control board. If mounted as directed, it would be just about impossible to reach the USB port for firmware updates, and wires would need to be run to the screw terminals before the board was mounted to the bottom of the box because of clearance issues with the main motherboard. We turned it around to make the RJ-45, USB, and screw terminals face the outsides of the machine, but the included RJ-45 cable's strain relief boot is too long to fit inside the box when it's plugged into the extruder board. We're going to try making a custom cable as a remedy; cable, ends, and crimpers are living at the space.

There were two problems attaching the Y motor to the acrylic middle piece. The first was that in tightening the mounting bolts, we split the acrylic in at least three of the four mounting slots. The splits are small, but may lengthen under operating conditions. Here's hoping that doesn't happen, since we still haven't figured out how to get replacement wooden/acrylic parts for the machine.

The second problem was that the motor needed to be mounted all the way at the back of its slots to keep tension on the Y-axis toothed belt. Unfortunately, one of the mounting slots shares real estate with a T-joint slot in the acrylic, and the motor mounting bolt interferes with the nut for a T-joint mounting bolt. We may be able to just carefully cram everything in, but it won't be easy.

[[File:session_2_photo_2.jpg|thumb|border|The box is shaping up! Extruder, too!]]
The body assembly instructions never really say at what point you're supposed to screw the body together. We're just going to do it. The body setup also calls for five M4x50mm bolts, but our kit only contained three. We've only needed one so far, so our fingers are crossed.

We didn't have any high-temperature solder on hand for the heater resistors, so we used regular solder. One of our builders said he'd read that regular solder may give up the ghost after around 100 hours of use. We should revisit those solder joints when we've procured some of the high-temp stuff. It should be available from plumbing supply stores or maybe even Harbor Freight.

There's a step in the extruder instructions that says to "[http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc75 solder the red/black wire to the motor wires]". That didn't make much sense; it sounds like the instructions want you to connect the heater to the wires from one of the motors in the machine, but it doesn't say which one! On further reading, it sounds like "motor wires" refers to the physical properties of the wire and not the system to which it's connected. The directions could be clearer (a sentiment echoed several times during this build session).

Lots of progress. We might have this thing licked at our next build session!

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Mounting electronics

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly
* Body assembly

'''For next time:'''
* Adjust the X-stage drive belt; pull off the Y-stage's left top cap, loosen motor mount bolts, slide the motor back until all the slack is out of the belt, and retighten.
* Build an RJ-45-terminated cable for the extruder control board
* Finish extruder assembly (Next step? Maybe [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc76 Insulate wires]?)
* Test extruder per instructions
* Finish body assembly
** Screw the body panels together for real
** Finish securing the XY stage rods as detailed in: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc17 Adding XY stage]
** Then resume the build at: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc21 Adding Z stage]
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-03-03T20:49:07Z

Shrapnel: Added photos of build session #2

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

'''GATHER TIMELAPSE FRAMES!!'''
We'll put them together into a video at the end of the build.
* <nowiki>while true; do sleep 10; wget http://172.30.1.253/jpg/image.jpg; mv image.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done</nowiki>
or, remotely:
*<nowiki>while true; do sleep 60; wget http://lamecam.com/collexion/cam0.jpg; mv cam0.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done;</nowiki>

(as of Mon Feb 28 00:30 this is now happening server-side on lamecam. Bit late, I know, but...)

== 2/26/2011 — Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ==

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side. This may be too narrow, but we have spares.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight (UPDATE: it's [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/t-309109/man-that-s-a-tight-fit supposed to be that way]). It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - X-stage (Automated Build Platform)
* FINISHED - Y-stage
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly in progress (Next step: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc75 Solder the red/black wire to the motor wires] There is some confusion as to '''which''' motor wires...)
* Electronics mounting in progress, almost finished except for wiring to extruder controller, and connecting the four stepper motors

'''For next time:'''
* <strike>Check X-stage belt's tooth count; it's really loose, and it may be the wrong one</strike> -- Apparently this belt is just loose? Still seems wrong, there's going to be a lot of lash when the motor reverses directions.
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

== 2/26/2011 — Second build session. Massive progress. ==

[[File:session_2_photo_1.jpg|thumb|border|Collexion folk working through the electronics, extruder, and body assembly]]
With the X, Y, and Z stages complete, we took to assembling the body, mounting the rest of the electronics, and continuing work on the extruder.

It didn't seem that there was a good way to mount the extruder control board. If mounted as directed, it would be just about impossible to reach the USB port for firmware updates, and wires would need to be run to the screw terminals before the board was mounted to the bottom of the box because of clearance issues with the main motherboard. We turned it around to make the RJ-45, USB, and screw terminals face the outsides of the machine, but the included RJ-45 cable's strain relief boot is too long to fit inside the box when it's plugged into the extruder board. We're going to try making a custom cable as a remedy; cable, ends, and crimpers are living at the space.

There were two problems attaching the Y motor to the acrylic middle piece. The first was that in tightening the mounting bolts, we split the acrylic in at least three of the four mounting slots. The splits are small, but may lengthen under operating conditions. Here's hoping that doesn't happen, since we still haven't figured out how to get replacement wooden/acrylic parts for the machine.

The second problem was that the motor needed to be mounted all the way at the back of its slots to keep tension on the Y-axis toothed belt. Unfortunately, one of the mounting slots shares real estate with a T-joint slot in the acrylic, and the motor mounting bolt interferes with the nut for a T-joint mounting bolt. We may be able to just carefully cram everything in, but it won't be easy.

[[File:session_2_photo_2.jpg|thumb|border|The box is shaping up! Extruder, too!]]
The body assembly instructions never really say at what point you're supposed to screw the body together. We're just going to do it. The body setup also calls for five M4x50mm bolts, but our kit only contained three. We've only needed one so far, so our fingers are crossed.

We didn't have any high-temperature solder on hand for the heater resistors, so we used regular solder. One of our builders said he'd read that regular solder may give up the ghost after around 100 hours of use. We should revisit those solder joints when we've procured some of the high-temp stuff. It should be available from plumbing supply stores or maybe even Harbor Freight.

There's a step in the extruder instructions that says to "[http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc75 solder the red/black wire to the motor wires]". That didn't make much sense; it sounds like the instructions want you to connect the heater to the wires from one of the motors in the machine, but it doesn't say which one! On further reading, it sounds like "motor wires" refers to the physical properties of the wire and not the system to which it's connected. The directions could be clearer (a sentiment echoed several times during this build session).

Lots of progress. We might have this thing licked at our next build session!

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Mounting electronics

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly
* Body assembly

'''For next time:'''
* Build an RJ-45-terminated cable for the extruder control board
* Finish extruder assembly (Next step? Maybe [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc76 Insulate wires]?)
* Test extruder per instructions
* Finish body assembly
** Screw the body panels together for real
** Finish securing the XY stage rods as detailed in: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc17 Adding XY stage]
** Then resume the build at: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc21 Adding Z stage]
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

File:Session 2 photo 1.jpg

2011-03-03T20:45:53Z

Shrapnel: The gang goes to town on the Makerbot at the second build session.

The gang goes to town on the Makerbot at the second build session.

File:Session 2 photo 2.jpg

2011-03-03T20:44:47Z

Shrapnel: The gang continues to power through the Makerbot instructions at the second build session.

The gang continues to power through the Makerbot instructions at the second build session.

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-03-03T20:31:09Z

Shrapnel:

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

'''GATHER TIMELAPSE FRAMES!!'''
We'll put them together into a video at the end of the build.
* <nowiki>while true; do sleep 10; wget http://172.30.1.253/jpg/image.jpg; mv image.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done</nowiki>
or, remotely:
*<nowiki>while true; do sleep 60; wget http://lamecam.com/collexion/cam0.jpg; mv cam0.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done;</nowiki>

(as of Mon Feb 28 00:30 this is now happening server-side on lamecam. Bit late, I know, but...)

== 2/26/2011 — Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ==

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side. This may be too narrow, but we have spares.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight (UPDATE: it's [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/t-309109/man-that-s-a-tight-fit supposed to be that way]). It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - X-stage (Automated Build Platform)
* FINISHED - Y-stage
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly in progress (Next step: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc75 Solder the red/black wire to the motor wires] There is some confusion as to '''which''' motor wires...)
* Electronics mounting in progress, almost finished except for wiring to extruder controller, and connecting the four stepper motors

'''For next time:'''
* <strike>Check X-stage belt's tooth count; it's really loose, and it may be the wrong one</strike> -- Apparently this belt is just loose? Still seems wrong, there's going to be a lot of lash when the motor reverses directions.
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

== 2/26/2011 — Second build session. Massive progress. ==

With the X, Y, and Z stages complete, we took to assembling the body, mounting the rest of the electronics, and continuing work on the extruder.

It didn't seem that there was a good way to mount the extruder control board. If mounted as directed, it would be just about impossible to reach the USB port for firmware updates, and wires would need to be run to the screw terminals before the board was mounted to the bottom of the box because of clearance issues with the main motherboard. We turned it around to make the RJ-45, USB, and screw terminals face the outsides of the machine, but the included RJ-45 cable's strain relief boot is too long to fit inside the box when it's plugged into the extruder board. We're going to try making a custom cable as a remedy; cable, ends, and crimpers are living at the space.

There were two problems attaching the Y motor to the acrylic middle piece. The first was that in tightening the mounting bolts, we split the acrylic in at least three of the four mounting slots. The splits are small, but may lengthen under operating conditions. Here's hoping that doesn't happen, since we still haven't figured out how to get replacement wooden/acrylic parts for the machine.

The second problem was that the motor needed to be mounted all the way at the back of its slots to keep tension on the Y-axis toothed belt. Unfortunately, one of the mounting slots shares real estate with a T-joint slot in the acrylic, and the motor mounting bolt interferes with the nut for a T-joint mounting bolt. We may be able to just carefully cram everything in, but it won't be easy.

The body assembly instructions never really say at what point you're supposed to screw the body together. We're just going to do it. The body setup also calls for five M4x50mm bolts, but our kit only contained three. We've only needed one so far, so our fingers are crossed.

We didn't have any high-temperature solder on hand for the heater resistors, so we used regular solder. One of our builders said he'd read that regular solder may give up the ghost after around 100 hours of use. We should revisit those solder joints when we've procured some of the high-temp stuff. It should be available from plumbing supply stores or maybe even Harbor Freight.

There's a step in the extruder instructions that says to "[http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc75 solder the red/black wire to the motor wires]". That didn't make much sense; it sounds like the instructions want you to connect the heater to the wires from one of the motors in the machine, but it doesn't say which one! On further reading, it sounds like "motor wires" refers to the physical properties of the wire and not the system to which it's connected. The directions could be clearer (a sentiment echoed several times during this build session).

Lots of progress. We might have this thing licked at our next build session!

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Mounting electronics

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly
* Body assembly

'''For next time:'''
* Build an RJ-45-terminated cable for the extruder control board
* Finish extruder assembly (Next step? Maybe [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc76 Insulate wires]?)
* Test extruder per instructions
* Finish body assembly
** Screw the body panels together for real
** Finish securing the XY stage rods as detailed in: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc17 Adding XY stage]
** Then resume the build at: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc21 Adding Z stage]
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-03-03T20:30:11Z

Shrapnel:

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

'''GATHER TIMELAPSE FRAMES!!'''
We'll put them together into a video at the end of the build.
* <nowiki>while true; do sleep 10; wget http://172.30.1.253/jpg/image.jpg; mv image.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done</nowiki>
or, remotely:
*<nowiki>while true; do sleep 60; wget http://lamecam.com/collexion/cam0.jpg; mv cam0.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done;</nowiki>

(as of Mon Feb 28 00:30 this is now happening server-side on lamecam. Bit late, I know, but...)

== 2/26/2011 — Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ==

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight (UPDATE: it's [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/t-309109/man-that-s-a-tight-fit supposed to be that way]). It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - X-stage (Automated Build Platform)
* FINISHED - Y-stage
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly in progress (Next step: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc75 Solder the red/black wire to the motor wires] There is some confusion as to '''which''' motor wires...)
* Electronics mounting in progress, almost finished except for wiring to extruder controller, and connecting the four stepper motors

'''For next time:'''
* <strike>Check X-stage belt's tooth count; it's really loose, and it may be the wrong one</strike> -- Apparently this belt is just loose? Still seems wrong, there's going to be a lot of lash when the motor reverses directions.
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

== 2/26/2011 — Second build session. Massive progress. ==

With the X, Y, and Z stages complete, we took to assembling the body, mounting the rest of the electronics, and continuing work on the extruder.

It didn't seem that there was a good way to mount the extruder control board. If mounted as directed, it would be just about impossible to reach the USB port for firmware updates, and wires would need to be run to the screw terminals before the board was mounted to the bottom of the box because of clearance issues with the main motherboard. We turned it around to make the RJ-45, USB, and screw terminals face the outsides of the machine, but the included RJ-45 cable's strain relief boot is too long to fit inside the box when it's plugged into the extruder board. We're going to try making a custom cable as a remedy; cable, ends, and crimpers are living at the space.

There were two problems attaching the Y motor to the acrylic middle piece. The first was that in tightening the mounting bolts, we split the acrylic in at least three of the four mounting slots. The splits are small, but may lengthen under operating conditions. Here's hoping that doesn't happen, since we still haven't figured out how to get replacement wooden/acrylic parts for the machine.

The second problem was that the motor needed to be mounted all the way at the back of its slots to keep tension on the Y-axis toothed belt. Unfortunately, one of the mounting slots shares real estate with a T-joint slot in the acrylic, and the motor mounting bolt interferes with the nut for a T-joint mounting bolt. We may be able to just carefully cram everything in, but it won't be easy.

The body assembly instructions never really say at what point you're supposed to screw the body together. We're just going to do it. The body setup also calls for five M4x50mm bolts, but our kit only contained three. We've only needed one so far, so our fingers are crossed.

We didn't have any high-temperature solder on hand for the heater resistors, so we used regular solder. One of our builders said he'd read that regular solder may give up the ghost after around 100 hours of use. We should revisit those solder joints when we've procured some of the high-temp stuff. It should be available from plumbing supply stores or maybe even Harbor Freight.

There's a step in the extruder instructions that says to "[http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc75 solder the red/black wire to the motor wires]". That didn't make much sense; it sounds like the instructions want you to connect the heater to the wires from one of the motors in the machine, but it doesn't say which one! On further reading, it sounds like "motor wires" refers to the physical properties of the wire and not the system to which it's connected. The directions could be clearer (a sentiment echoed several times during this build session).

Lots of progress. We might have this thing licked at our next build session!

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Mounting electronics

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly
* Body assembly

'''For next time:'''
* Build an RJ-45-terminated cable for the extruder control board
* Finish extruder assembly (Next step? Maybe [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc76 Insulate wires]?)
* Test extruder per instructions
* Finish body assembly
** Screw the body panels together for real
** Finish securing the XY stage rods as detailed in: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc17 Adding XY stage]
** Then resume the build at: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc21 Adding Z stage]
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-03-03T20:29:52Z

Shrapnel: Added second build session notes

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

'''GATHER TIMELAPSE FRAMES!!'''
We'll put them together into a video at the end of the build.
* <nowiki>while true; do sleep 10; wget http://172.30.1.253/jpg/image.jpg; mv image.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done</nowiki>
or, remotely:
*<nowiki>while true; do sleep 60; wget http://lamecam.com/collexion/cam0.jpg; mv cam0.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done;</nowiki>

(as of Mon Feb 28 00:30 this is now happening server-side on lamecam. Bit late, I know, but...)

== 2/26/2011 — Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ==

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight (UPDATE: it's [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/t-309109/man-that-s-a-tight-fit supposed to be that way]). It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - X-stage (Automated Build Platform)
* FINISHED - Y-stage
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly in progress (Next step: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc75 Solder the red/black wire to the motor wires] There is some confusion as to '''which''' motor wires...)
* Electronics mounting in progress, almost finished except for wiring to extruder controller, and connecting the four stepper motors

'''For next time:'''
* <strike>Check X-stage belt's tooth count; it's really loose, and it may be the wrong one</strike> -- Apparently this belt is just loose? Still seems wrong, there's going to be a lot of lash when the motor reverses directions.
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

== 2/26/2011 — Second build session. Massive progress. ==

With the X, Y, and Z stages complete, we took to assembling the body, mounting the rest of the electronics, and continuing work on the extruder.

It didn't seem that there was a good way to mount the extruder control board. If mounted as directed, it would be just about impossible to reach the USB port for firmware updates, and wires would need to be run to the screw terminals before the board was mounted to the bottom of the box because of clearance issues with the main motherboard. We turned it around to make the RJ-45, USB, and screw terminals face the outsides of the machine, but the included RJ-45 cable's strain relief boot is too long to fit inside the box when it's plugged into the extruder board. We're going to try making a custom cable as a remedy; cable, ends, and crimpers are living at the space.

There were two problems attaching the Y motor to the acrylic middle piece. The first was that in tightening the mounting bolts, we split the acrylic in at least three of the four mounting slots. The splits are small, but may lengthen under operating conditions. Here's hoping that doesn't happen, since we still haven't figured out how to get replacement wooden/acrylic parts for the machine.

The second problem was that the motor needed to be mounted all the way at the back of its slots to keep tension on the Y-axis toothed belt. Unfortunately, one of the mounting slots shares real estate with a T-joint slot in the acrylic, and the motor mounting bolt interferes with the nut for a T-joint mounting bolt. We may be able to just carefully cram everything in, but it won't be easy.

The body assembly instructions never really say at what point you're supposed to screw the body together. We're just going to do it. The body setup also calls for five M4x50mm bolts, but our kit only contained three. We've only needed one so far, so our fingers are crossed.

We didn't have any high-temperature solder on hand for the heater resistors, so we used regular solder. One of our builders said he'd read that regular solder may give up the ghost after around 100 hours of use. We should revisit those solder joints when we've procured some of the high-temp stuff. It should be available from plumbing supply stores or maybe even Harbor Freight.

There's a step in the extruder instructions that says to "[http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc75 solder the red/black wire to the motor wires]". That didn't make much sense; it sounds like the instructions want you to connect the heater to the wires from one of the motors in the machine, but it doesn't say which one! On further reading, it sounds like "motor wires" refers to the physical properties of the wire and not the system to which it's connected. The directions could be clearer (a sentiment echoed several times during this build session).

Lots of progress. We might have this thing licked at our next build session!

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - Mounting electronics

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly
* Body assembly

'''For next time:'''
* Build an RJ-45-terminated cable for the extruder control board
* Finish extruder assembly (Next step? Maybe [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc76 Insulate wires]?)
* Test extruder per instructions
* Finish body assembly
** Screw the body panels together for real
** Finish securing the XY stage rods as detailed in: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc17 Adding XY stage]
** Then resume the build at: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:body-assembly#toc21 Adding Z stage]
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-03-01T17:55:40Z

Shrapnel:

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

'''GATHER TIMELAPSE FRAMES!!'''
We'll put them together into a video at the end of the build.
* <nowiki>while true; do sleep 10; wget http://172.30.1.253/jpg/image.jpg; mv image.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done</nowiki>
or, remotely:
*<nowiki>while true; do sleep 60; wget http://lamecam.com/collexion/cam0.jpg; mv cam0.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done;</nowiki>

(as of Mon Feb 28 00:30 this is now happening server-side on lamecam. Bit late, I know, but...)

== 2/26/2011 ==

=== Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ===

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight (UPDATE: it's [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/t-309109/man-that-s-a-tight-fit supposed to be that way]). It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - X-stage (Automated Build Platform)
* FINISHED - Y-stage
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly in progress (Next step: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc59 Superglue spacer feet to support].)
* Electronics mounting in progress

'''For next time:'''
* Check ABP belt's tooth count; it's really loose, and it may be the wrong one
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-03-01T17:55:17Z

Shrapnel: Added a link to the makerbot forums where others also noted that the ABP belt is tight

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

'''GATHER TIMELAPSE FRAMES!!'''
We'll put them together into a video at the end of the build.
* <nowiki>while true; do sleep 10; wget http://172.30.1.253/jpg/image.jpg; mv image.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done</nowiki>
or, remotely:
*<nowiki>while true; do sleep 60; wget http://lamecam.com/collexion/cam0.jpg; mv cam0.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done;</nowiki>

(as of Mon Feb 28 00:30 this is now happening server-side on lamecam. Bit late, I know, but...)

== 2/26/2011 ==

=== Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ===

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight (UPDATE: It's [http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/t-309109/man-that-s-a-tight-fit supposed to be that way]. It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness.

'''Accomplished:'''
* FINISHED - X-stage (Automated Build Platform)
* FINISHED - Y-stage
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

'''In Progress:'''
* Extruder assembly in progress (Next step: [http://wiki.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk6-assembly-3mm#toc59 Superglue spacer feet to support].)
* Electronics mounting in progress

'''For next time:'''
* Check ABP belt's tooth count; it's really loose, and it may be the wrong one
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

Talk:Main Page

2011-03-01T16:46:42Z

Shrapnel:

Should the BGCF donation link be changed to https://bgcf.guidestargiving.org/donatenow ??

* Looks more direct. Is there another reason? [[User:Shrapnel|Shrapnel]] 11:46, 1 March 2011 (EST)

User:Shrapnel

2011-02-28T19:13:23Z

Shrapnel: Created page with "Advocate for the research and development of wireless transmissions that fly in the face of all known wireless regulations, FCC or otherwise, for use in the event that we find ou..."

Advocate for the research and development of wireless transmissions that fly in the face of all known wireless regulations, FCC or otherwise, for use in the event that we find ourselves in the middle of civil unrest or political upheaval that renders such authority null and void.

Rubyists

2011-02-28T19:09:55Z

Shrapnel: /* People */ added me

== Purpose ==
To build projects in, evangelize, energize, and educate others about RUBY.

== Events ==
* [[Kyrug|Kentucky Ruby Users Group]] (kyrug) meetings happen the second Thursday of the month in the space.
* Monthy hack-fest. Projects are proposed by the participants and soultions are built as a team to explore different libraries, tools, and practices. Check the kyrug mailing list and twitter for info.

== People ==
* [[User:Xtoddx|xtoddx]]
* [[User:Shrapnel|shrapnel]]

Main Page

2011-02-28T19:07:08Z

Shrapnel: Moved makerbot build notes to "What's New?" section

{{Collexion:About}}

= What's New? =
* '''Give Back to Collexion: [http://bgcf.org/donate-now/ Donate Online]''' (the BGCF handles all our funds)
* Check out our Steam group: [http://steamcommunity.com/groups/collexion/ Collexion on Steam]
* Join in on our weekly [[IRC meetup]]: Wednesdays 9pm on irc.freenode.net in #collexion
* Come to our new event: [[Collexion Show and Tell]]
* [[Collexion]] exhibited at UK's [http://www.engr.uky.edu/eday/2011/index.html Engineers Day Open House]. Want to see what we did? [[E-Day 2011|click here!]]
* '''We're building a [http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic Makerbot Thing-O-Matic]!!''' Check out our [[Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes|build notes]].

== Let's Make Something! ==
* Participate: [[Teams]]
* Some Group [[Projects]] that might be fun.
* Let's get [[Fundraising]]!
* [[MSP430 Workshop notes 2/27/2011]]

== Let's Do Something! ==
* Know the [[Rules]]
* Getting to know Collexion: [[Collexion Facts]]
* Collexion's Future: [[Roadmap]]
* Befriend our generous [[Board of Directors]]
* The [[Todo List]]

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-02-28T00:28:29Z

Shrapnel: Updated progress

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

'''GATHER TIMELAPSE FRAMES!!'''
We'll put them together into a video at the end of the build.
* <nowiki>while true; do sleep 10; wget http://172.30.1.253/jpg/image.jpg; mv image.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done</nowiki>
or, remotely:
*<nowiki>while true; do sleep 60; wget http://lamecam.com/collexion/cam0.jpg; mv cam0.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done;</nowiki>

== 2/26/2011 ==

=== Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ===

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight. It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness.

'''Accomplished:'''
* Extruder assembly in progress
* Electronics mounting in progress
* FINISHED - X-stage (Automated Build Platform)
* FINISHED - Y-stage
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

'''For next time:'''
* Check ABP belt's tooth count; it's really loose, and it may be the wrong one
* ''If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed''

MSP430 Workshop notes 2/27/2011

2011-02-28T00:20:34Z

Shrapnel: Added a note about loading the compiled binaries onto the microcontroller

Here are the notes from our TI MSP430 programming workshop, held 2/27/2011. Our goal was to get working build environments on our PCs and be able to program the LED on the ez430 development sticks from Texas Instruments. We succeeded!

== Code ==

Once compiled, you can use mspdebug's 'prog' command to load the .elf binary onto the device:

<code>mspdebug -d /dev/ttyUSB0 uif 'prog blinky430.elf'</code>

Here's the blinky code we used to test the toolchain, modified from TI's blinky code to make it more readable for non-C programmers:

<code><pre><nowiki>
/*

blinky430.c

*/
#include <msp430x20x3.h>

void main(void)
{
// The watchdog timer will periodically reset the chip if we haven't poked it
// Initialize the WDT (WDTPW) and turn that behavior off (WDTHOLD)
WDTCTL = WDTPW + WDTHOLD;

// Mark P1.0 as an output pin by setting P1DIR's LSB to 1
P1DIR = P1DIR | 0x01;

while (1) // Infinite loop
{
// Flip LED state
// Invert pin P1.0, port 1 bitwise XOR with 0000 0001
P1OUT = P1OUT ^ 0x01;

// Wait
i = 20000;
while ( i > 0 ) {
i--;
}
}
}
</nowiki></pre></code>

And here's some code that can make the LED pulse up and down, rather than flash on and off:

<code><pre><nowiki>
/*

pulse430.c

*/
#include <msp430x20x3.h>

// Constants for pulse width increment and cycle time (sum of LED on + off time)
#define INCR 1
#define CYCLE 250

void main(void)
{
// The watchdog timer will periodically reset the chip if we haven't poked it
// Initialize the WDT (WDTPW) and turn that behavior off (WDTHOLD)
WDTCTL = WDTPW + WDTHOLD;

// Mark P1.0 as an output pin by setting P1DIR's LSB to 1
P1DIR = P1DIR | 0x01;

// Starting value for the LED pulse width
unsigned int width = 11;

// Per-cycle pulse width delta (how much longer to stay lit each cycle)
unsigned int incr = INCR;

// Loop counter
unsigned long i;

while (1) // Infinite loop
{

// == LED ON ==
// Turn on pin P1.0, port 1 bitwise OR with 0000 0001
P1OUT = P1OUT | 0x01;

// Wait
i = width;
while ( i > 0 ) {
i--;
}

// == LED OFF ==
// Turn off pin P1.0, port 1 bitwise AND with 1111 1110
P1OUT = P1OUT & 0xFE;

// Wait out the remainder of the cycle
i = CYCLE - width;
while ( i > 0 ) {
i--;
}

// == UPDATE PULSE WIDTH ==
width += incr;

// If we've hit the minimum or maximum pulse width, start moving the width
// in the other direction
if ( width >= CYCLE - 30 || width < 1) {
incr = -incr;
}

}
}
</nowiki></pre></code>

== Links ==
=== Tools ===
*[http://sourceforge.net/projects/mspgcc4/files/mspgcc4/ mspgcc4 (sourceforge.net)]
** Extract the latest tarball, run <code>./build_gcc.sh</code>
** Will download binutils, gcc, gdb, and compile them (may take a LONG time)
** Will default to installing under /opt/

*[http://mspdebug.sourceforge.net/download.html mspdebug (sourceforge.net)]
** In Ubuntu, first install dependencies: <code>apt-get install libreadline-dev libusb-dev</code>
** Put the 'mspdebug' binary in the bin/ directory established when you installed mspgcc4

=== Info ===
* [http://focus.ti.com/docs/toolsw/folders/print/ez430-f2013.html MSP430 USB Stick user's guide (ti.com)]
** Schematic of development board
** Notes on device capabilities

* [http://www.43oh.com/2010/11/a-step-by-step-guide-msp430-programming-under-linux/ Step by Step Guide To MSP430 Programming with Eclipse under Linux (43oh.com)]
** Used [http://mspdebug.sourceforge.net/download.html mspdebug] in the console to program/debug the chip
** We didn't try mspdebug + Eclipse as documented on this page, but would expect it to work well
** Couldn't get Eclipse to connect to the msp430-gdbproxy instance and debug on the device
** In the latest version of Eclipse, if using msp430-gdbproxy, use the debugger type "gdbserver Debugger" instead of "remote gdb/mi"

*[http://www.simpleavr.com/msp430-projects/ti-launchbread TI Launchbread, a practical example of wiring/coding/flashing (simpleavr.com)]

*[http://justinstech.org/2010/08/msp430-basic-codingprograming-part-1/ MSP430 basic coding & programing part 1 (justinstech.org)]

*[http://justinstech.org/2010/08/msp430-basic-codingprograming-part-2-wdt/ MSP430 basic coding & programing part 2, watchdog timer examples (justinstech.org)]

MSP430 Workshop notes 2/27/2011

2011-02-28T00:11:50Z

Shrapnel: Added MSP430 sample code, links, notes

Here are the notes from our TI MSP430 programming workshop, held 2/27/2011. Our goal was to get working build environments on our PCs and be able to program the LED on the ez430 development sticks from Texas Instruments. We succeeded!

== Code ==

Here's the blinky code we used to test the toolchain, modified from TI's blinky code to make it more readable for non-C programmers:

<code><pre><nowiki>
#include <msp430x20x3.h>

void main(void)
{
// The watchdog timer will periodically reset the chip if we haven't poked it
// Initialize the WDT (WDTPW) and turn that behavior off (WDTHOLD)
WDTCTL = WDTPW + WDTHOLD;

// Mark P1.0 as an output pin by setting P1DIR's LSB to 1
P1DIR = P1DIR | 0x01;

while (1) // Infinite loop
{
// Flip LED state
// Invert pin P1.0, port 1 bitwise XOR with 0000 0001
P1OUT = P1OUT ^ 0x01;

// Wait
i = 20000;
while ( i > 0 ) {
i--;
}
}
}
</nowiki></pre></code>

And here's some code that can make the LED pulse up and down, rather than flash on and off:

<code><pre><nowiki>
#include <msp430x20x3.h>

// Constants for pulse width increment and cycle time (sum of LED on + off time)
#define INCR 1
#define CYCLE 250

void main(void)
{
// The watchdog timer will periodically reset the chip if we haven't poked it
// Initialize the WDT (WDTPW) and turn that behavior off (WDTHOLD)
WDTCTL = WDTPW + WDTHOLD;

// Mark P1.0 as an output pin by setting P1DIR's LSB to 1
P1DIR = P1DIR | 0x01;

// Starting value for the LED pulse width
unsigned int width = 11;

// Per-cycle pulse width delta (how much longer to stay lit each cycle)
unsigned int incr = INCR;

// Loop counter
unsigned long i;

while (1) // Infinite loop
{

// == LED ON ==
// Turn on pin P1.0, port 1 bitwise OR with 0000 0001
P1OUT = P1OUT | 0x01;

// Wait
i = width;
while ( i > 0 ) {
i--;
}

// == LED OFF ==
// Turn off pin P1.0, port 1 bitwise AND with 1111 1110
P1OUT = P1OUT & 0xFE;

// Wait out the remainder of the cycle
i = CYCLE - width;
while ( i > 0 ) {
i--;
}

// == UPDATE PULSE WIDTH ==
width += incr;

// If we've hit the minimum or maximum pulse width, start moving the width
// in the other direction
if ( width >= CYCLE - 30 || width < 1) {
incr = -incr;
}

}
}
</nowiki></pre></code>

== Links ==
=== Tools ===
*[http://sourceforge.net/projects/mspgcc4/files/mspgcc4/ mspgcc4 (sourceforge.net)]
** Extract the latest tarball, run <code>./build_gcc.sh</code>
** Will download binutils, gcc, gdb, and compile them (may take a LONG time)
** Will default to installing under /opt/

*[http://mspdebug.sourceforge.net/download.html mspdebug (sourceforge.net)]
** In Ubuntu, first install dependencies: <code>apt-get install libreadline-dev libusb-dev</code>
** Put the 'mspdebug' binary in the bin/ directory established when you installed mspgcc4

=== Info ===
* [http://focus.ti.com/docs/toolsw/folders/print/ez430-f2013.html MSP430 USB Stick user's guide (ti.com)]
** Schematic of development board
** Notes on device capabilities

* [http://www.43oh.com/2010/11/a-step-by-step-guide-msp430-programming-under-linux/ Step by Step Guide To MSP430 Programming with Eclipse under Linux (43oh.com)]
** Used [http://mspdebug.sourceforge.net/download.html mspdebug] in the console to program/debug the chip
** We didn't try mspdebug + Eclipse as documented on this page, but would expect it to work well
** Couldn't get Eclipse to connect to the msp430-gdbproxy instance and debug on the device
** In the latest version of Eclipse, if using msp430-gdbproxy, use the debugger type "gdbserver Debugger" instead of "remote gdb/mi"

*[http://www.simpleavr.com/msp430-projects/ti-launchbread TI Launchbread, a practical example of wiring/coding/flashing (simpleavr.com)]

*[http://justinstech.org/2010/08/msp430-basic-codingprograming-part-1/ MSP430 basic coding & programing part 1 (justinstech.org)]

*[http://justinstech.org/2010/08/msp430-basic-codingprograming-part-2-wdt/ MSP430 basic coding & programing part 2, watchdog timer examples (justinstech.org)]

Main Page

2011-02-27T23:11:59Z

Shrapnel:

{{Collexion:About}}

= What's New? =
* '''Give Back to Collexion: [http://bgcf.org/donate-now/ Donate Online]''' (the BGCF handles all our funds)
* Check out our Steam group: [http://steamcommunity.com/groups/collexion/ Collexion on Steam]
* Join in on our weekly [[IRC meetup]]: Wednesdays 9pm on irc.freenode.net in #collexion
* Come to our new event: [[Collexion Show and Tell]]
* [[Collexion]] exhibited at UK's [http://www.engr.uky.edu/eday/2011/index.html Engineers Day Open House]. Want to see what we did? [[E-Day 2011|click here!]]

== Let's Make Something! ==
* Participate: [[Teams]]
* Some Group [[Projects]] that might be fun.
* Let's get [[Fundraising]]!
* [[Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes]]
* [[MSP430 Workshop notes 2/27/2011]]

== Let's Do Something! ==
* Know the [[Rules]]
* Getting to know Collexion: [[Collexion Facts]]
* Collexion's Future: [[Roadmap]]
* Befriend our generous [[Board of Directors]]
* The [[Todo List]]

Main Page

2011-02-27T23:11:45Z

Shrapnel:

{{Collexion:About}}

= What's New? =
* '''Give Back to Collexion: [http://bgcf.org/donate-now/ Donate Online]''' (the BGCF handles all our funds)
* Check out our Steam group: [http://steamcommunity.com/groups/collexion/ Collexion on Steam]
* Join in on our weekly [[IRC meetup]]: Wednesdays 9pm on irc.freenode.net in #collexion
* Come to our new event: [[Collexion Show and Tell]]
* [[Collexion]] exhibited at UK's [http://www.engr.uky.edu/eday/2011/index.html Engineers Day Open House]. Want to see what we did? [[E-Day 2011|click here!]]

== Let's Make Something! ==
* Participate: [[Teams]]
* Some Group [[Projects]] that might be fun.
* Let's get [[Fundraising]]!
* [[Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes]]
* [[MSP430 Workshop notes 2/27/2011]]

== Let's Do Something! ==
* Know the [[Rules]]
* Getting to know Collexion: [[Collexion Facts]]
* Collexion's Future: [[Roadmap]]
* Befriend our generous [[Board of Directors]]
* The [[Todo List]]

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-02-27T01:40:59Z

Shrapnel:

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

'''GATHER TIMELAPSE FRAMES!!'''
We'll put them together into a video at the end of the build.
* <nowiki>while true; do sleep 10; wget http://172.30.1.253/jpg/image.jpg; mv image.jpg `date +%Y%m%d%H%M%S`_makerbot.jpg; done</nowiki>

== 2/26/2011 ==

=== Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ===

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight. It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness.

'''Accomplished:'''
* Wiring attached to conveyor motor
* Y-stage build in progress
* FINISHED - Automated Build Platform
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

'''For next time:'''
* If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-02-27T01:16:07Z

Shrapnel:

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

== 2/26/2011 ==

=== Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ===

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight. It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness.

'''Accomplished:'''
* Wiring attached to conveyor motor
* Y-stage build in progress
* FINISHED - Automated Build Platform
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

'''For next time:'''
* If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-02-27T01:08:21Z

Shrapnel:

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

== 2/26/2011 ==

=== Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ===

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight. It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness.

'''Accomplished:'''
* Wiring attached to conveyor motor
* ABP build in progress
* Y-stage build in progress
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

'''For next time:'''
* If a construction phase is incomplete, link to the instructions page and enter the title of the next step to be performed

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-02-27T01:00:28Z

Shrapnel:

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

== 2/26/2011 ==

=== Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ===

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight. It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness.

'''Accomplished:'''
* Wiring attached to conveyor motor
* ABP build in progress
* Y-stage build in progress
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-02-27T00:59:45Z

Shrapnel:

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

== 2/26/2011 ==

=== Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ===

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

The ABP's conveyor belt was too wide, wider than it appears in photos of other people's platforms. We trimmed it down to about 0.5cm inside the foil heat spreader on either side.

The ABP's conveyor belt is also '''very''' tight. It's difficult to move by hand, and it's bowing the rollers on either end. The kit contains three loops of conveyor plastic and two strips of conveyor plastic that look like they're intended to be taped into loops. No explanation for the strips in the instructions, and no mention of roller tightness in the instructions.

'''Accomplished:'''
* Wiring attached to conveyor motor
* ABP build in progress
* Y-stage build in progress
* FINISHED - Z-stage
* FINISHED - Motherboard firmware update
* FINISHED - Extruder firmware update

Makerbot Thing-O-Matic build notes

2011-02-26T23:02:55Z

Shrapnel: Fixed layout, added photos of broken rib

This space is intended to document progress on our Makerbot build. It should contain any information that other builders or future users might need to know, as well as general build status.

== 2/26/2011 ==

=== Initial build session. All parts packages accounted for. ===

Tools to bring to the space for build sessions:
* Utility knife and/or scissors
* Needle-nose pliers

[[File:broken_rib_front.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, front]]
[[File:broken_rib_back.jpg|thumb|border|Broken rib, back]]
We broke one of the Automated Build Platform's wooden ribs (with bushings for the drive rods). Some of the corners are really delicate. We repaired it with epoxy inside, a dab of hot glue outside, and marked the joint with black arrows in case it causes problems down the road.

'''Accomplished:'''
* Wiring attached to conveyor motor
* ABP build begun
* Y-stage build begun

File:Broken rib back.jpg

2011-02-26T22:51:40Z

Shrapnel: Back of broken ABP, arrow points to epoxied joint

Back of broken ABP, arrow points to epoxied joint